To say that Belgium has more than its fair share of iconic cities is something of an understatement. After all, the tiny 11.46 million-strong nation boasts such notables as Brussels, home of the European Parliament, Bruges, the picturesque town dubbed the “Venice of the North”, and Antwerp, long the country’s historic diamond and Art Deco hotspot. However, few would call to mind Ghent, the Northern Belgian city that encompasses the most historical classified buildings in the country, including three monuments listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
The second largest city in the Flemish region of Belgium, Ghent is home to just under 250,000 souls, yet it attracts millions of tourists each year, many drawn by its vibrant art, history and architectural charm. Although the area was first settled during the Stone Age, it wasn’t until 650 AD, when Saint Armand, a bishop of Tongeren-Maastricht and a renowned Flemish missionary, founded two abbeys at Ghent when the town truly flourished. By the 13th century, it had grown to such an extent that it was the biggest European city after Paris, overtaking such cosmopolitan hubs as Moscow and Cologne. By the Renaissance Era, thanks to a booming wool trade, the town had transformed into one of the richest cities on the European continent.
Today, Ghent is just a 45-minute train ride from Brussels, the Belgian capital. Boasting beautiful castles, glistening canals, intriguing architecture and a plethora of culinary delights, there is truly plenty to see and do in this port city. If you’re looking for a place to base your sightseeing, the city’s gothic splendour has been channelled expertly into what was the old post office, right on the city’s famous mediaeval quay, the Graslei.
1898 The Post is a brooding boutique hotel bristling with fairytale turrets and tall windows overlooking the canal. Postal paraphernalia such as writing bureaus and antique pencil cases can be found in the hallways and deliciously dark-walled rooms – all of it reassuringly kitsch-free. Socialise over cocktails in the Cobbler or fix a drink and settle in with some Edgar Allan Poe in the turret-set honesty bar, replete with rows of leather-bound tomes and stag beetles in glass cases.
Once you’re ready to begin your explorations in earnest, a good place to start would be the Gravensteen castle. Built in 1180, it was subsequently re-purposed as a court, prison, mint, and even as a cotton factory. It was restored over 1893–1903 and is now a museum and a major landmark in the city. Its latest iteration houses the Arms Museum and the Museum of Judicial Objects, allowing intrepid visitors a first-hand glimpse at the weapons and torture devices used in medieval times. Make sure to visit the rooftop of this stone fortress, for the 360-degree views to be had which are are some of the most picture-worthy in Ghent.
Another historic monument worthy of a stopover is St Bavo’s Cathedral, an 11th century religious structure where Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor was baptised. Here you’ll find the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb altarpiece, a stunning relic painted by such great masters as Hubert and Jan van Eyck in the 15th century. For more picturesque vistas, head over to the iconic Ghent Belfry, a stunning 91m-high structure listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The tallest belfry in the country, its magnificent gothic architecture is awe-inspiring to behold, replete with copper dragon that has been guarding the city since the 14th century.
Meanwhile, art lovers could do far worse than to venture to DOK, a temporary cultural project in a large area where the old harbour and the border of the city flow into each other – empty warehouses, some slightly out-of-place apartment blocks and the odd second-hand car dealer. Together with DOK neighbourhood residents and local artists, it promotes arts, culture and sports initiatives … It even had a row-in cinema, where everyone was watching Jaws on small boats in front of a big screen on the water. Art hub Democracy, meanwhile, takes care of the live music shows, and you can also find SECONDROOM Ghent there, a gallery concept where cutting edge contemporary artists show their work.
“Millions of tourists are lured to Ghent by its vibrant art, history and architecture”
Ghent also has a vibrant street art scene, featuring the likes of artist Bue the Warrior and his joyous, colourful creatures, and the enigmatic Roa with his dark, black-and-white animals. Their work can be seen on walls all over town, often in collaboration with other less well-known painters. One particular wall, at the junction of Sleepstraat, Grauwpoort and Rodelijvekensstraat, marks the location where almost all the Ghent street kings have made a big tableau together and is a fantastic Instagram spot, should you wish to click a picture.
If you’re understandably hungry after all that sightseeing, fear not, for Ghent boasts plenty of signature dishes to fill your stomach and soul. In the city and other East Flanders areas, many bakeries offer a donut-shaped bun called a “mastel”, which is basically akin to a bagel. Mastellen are also called “Saint Hubert bread”, because on the Saint’s feast day, which is 3 November, the bakers bring their batches to early Mass to be blessed.
Other local delicacies are the praline chocolates from famous local chocolatiers such as Leonidas, the cuberdons or ‘neuzekes’ (‘noses’), cone-shaped purple jelly-filled candies, ‘babelutten’ (‘babblers’), hard butterscotch-like candy, and of course, on the more fiery side, the famous ‘Tierenteyn’, a hot but refined mustard that has some affinity to French ‘Dijon’ mustard and is sure to have your taste buds tingling.
Stoverij, a classic Flemish meat stew, is another dish you can’t miss. Preferably made with a generous addition of brown Trappist beer and served with French fries, it offers a wholesome, filling dish to satiate your hunger. Waterzooi is another local stew to try, originally made from freshwater fish caught in the rivers and creeks of Ghent, but nowadays often made with chicken instead of fish. It is usually served nouvelle-cuisine-style, and offers a lighter alternative to the stoverij.
“Many jetsetters have been entranced by Ghent’s unique past-meets-present charm”
Of course, no visit to Ghent would be complete without a pint or two of the famed local Belgian beers. In particular, the Trappist beers, brewed to this day by abbey monks, is a must-have. From stunning medieval castles, awe-inspiring Gothic architecture, and quaint cobbled streets to the vibrant art and culinary hotspots that punctuate this Belgian city, Ghent is a place that continues to celebrate its unique history, while still having its eye firmly on modernity. This unique past-meets-present charm is exactly why Ghent has entranced so many jetsetters over the years.