Seeing the surging crowds that thronged Hong Kong’s myriad monasteries last month as thousands queued to wish Buddha a “happy birthday”, it’s hard to believe that just 23 years ago the same holiday, in times pre-handover, was given over to marking the British Queen’s 70th year on earth. Since its return to the motherland, however, a public holiday to celebrate a far-distant monarch has been superseded in honour of a fourth century BC, semi-mythical Indian monk. Progress is, indeed, an oft contrary and unpredictable beast.
As a sign of the city’s commitment to a broad palate of religious tolerance, temples and shrines dedicated to virtually every possible denomination can be found somewhere within the Fragrant Harbour. Indeed, according to a 2017 report by the Legislative Council Secretariat, there are nearly 1,500 Christian places of worship in the city, as well as over 400 Buddhist and Taoist temples, three main synagogues and six mosques, while the Hindu and Sikh faithful both have their own religious centres. Interestingly, given the scale and the intricate architecture of some of these structures, they serve not only as places of worship but also as major tourist attractions, drawing millions of visitors to pray and display via social media every year. Which, though, are truly divine and which are temptations to be sorely resisted? Well, there are at least five holy sites that are wholly worth visiting…
Man Mo Temple
Built in 1847 by wealthy Chinese merchants, Sheung Wan’s Man Mo Temple is the oldest Taoist temple in Hong Kong, a standing that has seen it designated as a Grade 1 historic site. A truly atmospheric building, wrought with traditional Chinese architecture and its air thick with the fragrant smoke from the hundreds of ceiling-suspended incense coils, it is jointly dedicated to Man Cheung, the writing-brush-wielding god of literature, and Mo Tai, the sword-wielding god of martial arts, both of whom were revered as gods and Emperor Kings in times more classical.
Among the most outstanding features in its primary prayer hall are two elaborately-carved 19th century sedan chairs, items traditionally used to carry iconic representatives of the twin deities on festive occasions. The three-part complex also has a block dedicated to the other gods in the Taoist pantheon, while its west facing assembly hall was co-opted as a court for resolving disputes between the locals in colonial times.
Po Lin Monastery
Located in Lantau Island’s lushly picturesque Ngong Ping plateau, the Po Lin Monastery was founded in 1906 by three visiting Jiangsu monks. Originally simply known as Tai Mao Pung (“the big hut”) – a reference to its initially-rudimentary stone chamber and thatched roof construction, it has since evolved into a massive five-storey complex covering 6,000sq.m, comprising the Main Shrine Hall of Buddha, a scripture library, an abbot’s chamber, a meditation hall, a permanent altar, an exhibition hall for Buddhist artifacts and a series of elaborately-decorated landscaped gardens.
Its most prominent feature – in every sense – is,undoubtedly, the towering Tian Tan Buddha statue (the Big Buddha). Completed as recently as 1993, at 34m in height, it is the world’s tallest seated Buddha statue. Such is its appeal that visitors from far and wide climb the steep 268 steps that lead to up to it in order to get a closer look at the majestic deity as it sits atop a gigantic lotus. The panoramic view from the top also acts to attract the more agnostic.
Chi Lin Nunnery
A sprawling Buddhist complex located in Diamond Hill at Kowloon, the Chi Lin Nunnery currently rejoices in its status as the world’s largest handmade wooden complex. In total, it extends across 16 halls, a scripture library, a school and a pagoda, as well a bell and a drum tower, which, all in all, cover some 33,000sq.m. Originally built in the 1930s, it was remodelled in the style of the Tang Dynasty in 1998.
Carved entirely out of cypress wood, the structures have been built solely by painstakingly interlocking individual wooden planks without the use of a single nail. The main body of the temple is ringed by lotus ponds and bonsai trees, while its three gates are seen as symbolising the primary Buddhist principles – wisdom, compassion and resourcefulness. Equally beautiful is the adjacent Nan Lian Garden, with its golden pagoda, hills, ponds, waterfalls and rock collections – each placed specifically in strict compliance with feng shui guidelines – extending across 3.5 hectares.
Wong Tai Sin Temple
Another of Kowloon’s most memorable monuments is the Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple, a structure that is every bit as popular with the locals as it is with tourists, possibly on account of its legendary facility to grant the wishes of worthy visitors. While its actual efficacy on that front cannot be vouched for, any claim that its architecture is genuinely magnificent is far more easily verified.
Constructed in the 1920s by the followers of Wong Tai Sin (the Great Immortal Wong), a Taoist deity of some repute, the temple grew in stature during World War II when it provided due sanctuary to fleeing mainlanders. Since then, its legend has only grown, thanks in no small part to its extravagantly colourful architecture that finds feng shui elements secreted in every nook and recess of its 18,000sq.m estate – from its Bronze Pavilion and Yuk Yik Fountain to the Nine Dragon Wall and the Good Wish Garden.
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
Photos: AFP