As a rule of thumb, whenever a restaurant reaches a certain level of acclaim in some overseas market – say Europe, the US or Latin America – it is then all but incumbent on the owner and the senior management team to vow to replicate their success in the Fragrant Harbour – decor, menu, head chef and all. The latest establishment to honour this venerable tradition is none other than Ichu Peru, the Central dinery that, somewhat confusingly, is a note-for-note retake on Central, one of the more upmarket restaurants in downtown Lima, the Peruvian capital.
The key figure behind both fine dineries is Virgilio Martinez Véliz, the Lima-born chef and entrepreneur whose hometown establishment was voted as one of the 50 Best Restaurants in the World by London’s influential Restaurant magazine. The same publication later singled out Central as the Best Place to Eat in Latin America. Given that the continent is home to 428 million people, imagine the queues… Despite his establishments being more than 18,000km apart, the two are linked by more than just Véliz’s culinary prowess. Indeed, the decor of his Hong Kong eatery is a knowing homage to his far-distant homeland, while the dishes on offer are among the finest ambassadors for Peruvian cuisine to be found anywhere in Asia.
From almost every one of its tables, Ichu’s fortunate patrons are granted a glimpse into the open kitchen where the culinary team faithfully recreates the kind of platters that really matter to Latin Americans. With the maestro often away tending his burgeoning business empire, day-to-day responsibilities fall upon the able shoulders of head chef Sang Jeong, his South Korean protégé. It’s a challenge he’s more than up to, given he spent many years perfecting his Peruvian cooking skills in Lima under Véliz’s expert tutelage.
Eager to see just what he has learnt, we began with Pez Limon, smooth chunks of yellowtail, immersed in a shallow pool of yuzu vinaigrette and sprinkled with corn. The citrusy tang hit our taste buds hard, an impact somewhat offset by the sweetness of the corn, while the yellowtail slipped down with barely a nibble required. This came superbly paired with Jicama Y Sandia, a traditional Peruvian salad with rich layers of watermelon, jimica and queso fresco (fresh cheese).
Next to be plated-up was the Alitas Con Quinoa, two stuffed chicken wings dressed with rocoto pepper mash served in a simple stone bowl with a spicy bean and lupin sauce. While being crammed with rice and quinoa, there was actually a little less meat than we might have hoped for, spurring a memo to self to up the order to four next time round.
While the restaurant claims to champion a no-fuss dining culture, there was definitely something of a buzz in the air as the Bistec De Wagyu – one of Ichu’s most widely-feted dishes – made its way tablewards. As requested, the hanger steak was served sans bacon, with its potent aji ancho and chimichurri sauce ably enhancing the flavour of the beef and ensuring that ordering a second helping was a foregone conclusion.
And then, to finish, arguably the most lady-friendly and dainty dessert in the history of comely confectionery – the ruby chocolate pearl-ringed Ecosistema De Peru. Dusting off the pink highlights from our fingertips, we gingerly broke the chocolate pearl off piece by tantalising piece, dipping each fancy fragment into its rich inner banana ice cream and fudge reservoir. Both the mother of all pearls and a pearl for all mothers, this is a dessert that could be shared between four, but only with the very greatest reluctance.
Our verdict? With Peruvian cuisine still quite a mystery to most, a visit to Ichu Peru is truly one of epicurean enlightenment. Encompassing a beguiling selection of that far-distant land’s most lauded foodstuffs, this is the ideal spot for a South American-themed soirée or a little Lima-motifed limbering up for an evening of true romance.
Ichu Peru. 3F, H Queens, 80 Queen’s Road Central, Central. (852) 2477 7717. www.ichu.com.hk
Text: Bailey Atkinson