Lumen Kinoshita talks about keepsakes, karma and learning from the sub-prime crash

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Lumen Kinoshita is a director of the KGI Asia finance firm and the designer of the L. Luminous jewellery collection.

How was Hong Kong as a place to grow up?

It was fun, although my family spent a fair amount of time in Malaysia before we moved back to Hong Kong. We returned at a time of great political change with the end of colonial rule – that didn’t stop me having a pretty good childhood here, though.

Click here to watch the interview with Lumen

Raised in Hong Kong, then educated in the UK and Canada… So where, exactly, is home?

Definitely Hong Kong – even though my parents are not typical Hong Kongers, having moved to the city later in life. They were originally from China, with my mother being Fukienese. When I was growing up, I didn’t really think of myself as Cantonese, especially as my father was also only half Cantonese. We embraced Hong Kong, though, despite not feeling like locals. While I may have looked at it with a little bit of distance from time to time, I definitely feel like Hong Kong is home.

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“A steep learning curve is obligatory in the financial industry” you once said. What, though, is the key thing your professional life has taught you?

The importance of being aware of technology. The world has become a much smaller place and things now move much faster. There is also a constant stream of new products, something that caused a rude awakening for a lot of people in the industry a few years back. Coupled with sub-prime mortgages and all that, it was scary. Looking back, though, you could see all the little warning signs. Of course it was not just about data, it was about emotion, desire and greed. It was a very human thing.

How did you come to design your own jewellery collection?

Basically I have always loved accessories and I have always collected a lot of African beads and other such items. You know how it is – you have these things hanging around and, after a while, they become threadbare. Eventually decided I should make something out of these accessories, something that would make then them more relevant and allow me to enjoy them again. That’s how it started. I made a few things for myself as I like a bit of bling.

I went to a fashion show at Joyce (the Hong Kong boutique) and ran into their merchandiser. He took an interest in the pieces I had made and they asked me if I would do something for them. I have always seen Joyce as wonderful and very fashion-forward, so I was more than happy to make jewellery for them for a few seasons. I felt very fortunate to have been given the opportunity.

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When you are designing a collection where does your inspiration come from?

It mostly comes from what I already have. I try to work with the colours and with what I like. It is often something that has an emotional or sentimental value for me. One of the pieces I am currently wearing, for example, features a small coral heart pendant, something that I have had since junior high school. I wouldn’t wear it now as it seems too small, girlish even. I wouldn’t want to sell it either, though, or just push it aside. Instead, I incorporated it into a design, making it relevant for me again. I also like the idea of putting different things together to create a new whole.

You are known for your iconic fashion sense. Do you feel fashion plays a big part in your life?

I think so, I like fashion. I know it is going to sound clichéd, but my favourite designer is Alexander McQueen, largely because he has such a wonderful cut. For me, other designers, such as Giorgio Armani just don’t have the same fit. I don’t have a long body so, for me, McQueen’s cut is just right. I have always appreciated his style. Even though he wouldn’t be aware of it, I’ve always made to support him as a designer I particularly like. Even when he has had a sub-par season, I still try to buy something of his. Over the years, I have amassed quite a collection of his things. After he took his own life, suddenly everyone decided they loved him.

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When you are designing a collection where does your inspiration come from?

It mostly comes from what I already have. I try to work with the colours and with what I like. It is often something that has an emotional or sentimental value for me. One of the pieces I am currently wearing, for example, features a small coral heart pendant, something that I have had since junior high school. I wouldn’t wear it now as it seems too small, girlish even. I wouldn’t want to sell it either, though, or just push it aside. Instead, I incorporated it into a design, making it relevant for me again. I also like the idea of putting different things together to create a new whole.

You are known for your iconic fashion sense. Do you feel fashion plays a big part in your life?

I think so, I like fashion. I know it is going to sound clichéd, but my favourite designer is Alexander McQueen, largely because he has such a wonderful cut. For me, other designers, such as Giorgio Armani just don’t have the same fit. I don’t have a long body so, for me, McQueen’s cut is just right. I have always appreciated his style. Even though he wouldn’t be aware of it, I’ve always made to support him as a designer I particularly like. Even when he has had a sub-par season, I still try to buy something of his. Over the years, I have amassed quite a collection of his things. After he took his own life, suddenly everyone decided they loved him.

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