The restaurant’s stylish interiors chime well with the art. They were especially designed by Natalia Belonogova, the acclaimed Russian architect and winner of the Elle Decoration Design Award. She’s also brought her unique designs to many of Bulldozer’s other restaurants.
Highlighting his own expectations for this latest addition to his portfolio, Alexander Orlov, the founder of Bulldozer, says: “This particular project has been in preparation for over two and a half years. Now, though, we are delighted to have debuted our first project in Hong Kong. I hope it will provide a new seafood experience for the discerning diners of this absolutely amazing city.
“I intend this to be the first of many such projects, both in Hong Kong and on the mainland. We are now looking to open three more concept restaurants here over the next couple of years.”
All this décor, fine art and bold statements of intent are all well and good, but does the food live up to the hype? After all, no matter how refined the ambience, it’s the dining experience that truly decides whether such refined establishments live or die.
With influences that embrace Asian, Mediterranean and South American cuisines, the Seafood Room is blessed with an extensive palette. It brings all of its inspirations to bear, while adding its own distinct frisson.
One of Cornwall’s rightly renowned signature hot dishes is his miso-infused salmon with lime, a strong – but far from overbearing – trio of flavours. It faces intense competition from both his salt-crusted French sea bream – beautifully flavoured with simple hints of fresh rosemary and lime – and his US rib-eye steak, served with chimichurri sauce. In the latter’s case, the meat is beautifully tender, while the flavours and textures that accompany each and every bite are simply to die for.
From the selection of cold dishes on offer, one sure-fire favourite here is the langoustine tartare, complete with creamy avocado, truffle and caviar, a devilishly rich and orgasmic combination of flavours and textures. This is not to diminish the appeal of the tuna carpaccio with foie gras and truffle or the sea-fresh salmon tataki with jalapeño and avocado. And finally, there is the sumptuous warm octopus salad with potatoes, capers and smoked paprika.
Although Cornwall’s creations are straightforward and his ingredients simple, every dish is lovingly prepared and served without the hackneyed ostentation of so many other establishments. This is entirely in line with the chef’s avowed philosophy that, for truly fine food, emphasis should be on ingredients rather than on any distracting presentational sideshow.
Finally, to complete your meal, what better than a serving of yuzu tart with toasted meringue and green tea ice cream? There is always the peanut butter crunch bar with homemade ice cream or the baked vanilla cheesecake with strawberries. Of course, amid this array of gourmet delights, it would be wrong to resist the urge to take a tipple or two. Thankfully, Match Chan, the Seafood Room’s head mixologist will be at hand to provide any cocktail you can imagine, as well as a few that you probably can’t.
Chan, a veteran of some of Hong Kong’s finest hotel bars and restaurants – including The Peninsula, The Ritz-Carlton and the JW Marriot – is the man behind the restaurant’s proprietary range of innovative cocktails. Highlights here include the Eastern Alexander (Bols Genever, Crème de Cacao, Frangelic, coconut cream, fresh ginger and sago) and the Ocean Mule (Blue Butterfly dry flower-infused vodka, fresh lime juice, ginger liqueur and Fever-Tree ginger beer). The big questions are where to start and how to stop.
SEAFOOD ROOM
Address: 26/F, Tower 535, 535 Jaffe Rd, Causeway Bay
Reservation: 3708 9668
Website: www.seafoodroom.hk
Food: 9.5/10
Drinks: 9/10
Ambience: 10/10