The Middle Eastern nation of Oman is the oldest independent state within the Arab world, with a history that actually stretches back to the very dawn of human civilisation. In fact, archaeological surveys at one site – Aybut Al Auwal, set near the southern governate of Dhofar – suggest the area was first settled more than 100,000 years ago. The nearby city of Al Wattih, meanwhile, has been proven to be one of the world’s earliest inhabited metropolises, with a provenance of at least 10,000 years.
Across the intervening millennia, the region (which would ultimately become modern-day Oman) was dominated by the Assyrians, the Babylonians and the Persians, all of whom sought to utilise its strategic location between the Persian Gulf and the Arabian sea to maximise trade and access to the wider world.
It wasn’t until the mid-eighth century that, the Ibadi imamate finally politically unified the country. Since then, a string of hereditary dynasties has risen and fallen, including the Nabhani (1154-1624), and the Yaruba, (1624-1742). The current ruling house, Al Said, ultimately took (and kept) the rein as of 1744. At its 19th-century peak, the Omani empire extended east across the Strait of Hormuz, reaching out to Iran and Pakistan, and as far south as the borders of Mozambique and Tanzania. This saw it maintain a powerful maritime presence that gave even the Portuguese and British a run for their money.
Today, Oman remains an absolute monarchy, with its sultan, Haitham bin Tariq, ruling over a country of about five million people. Roughly 1.55 million of them reside in the capital, Muscat, an important trading port, that has facilitated travel and trade between east and west since it was first settled 900 years ago. A buzzing, cosmopolitan hub, its contemporary appeal – and much of the country’s infrastructure – stems from the four decades of development undertaken by the late, great Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said, who sadly passed away last year.
As any intrepid explorer will inevitably discover for themselves, Muscat is a very modern metropolis and one that is brimming with all the luxuries the Gulf states are rightly renowned for. Unlike its contemporaries – Dubai, to name but one – Muscat retains a vividly exotic soul, deeply immersed in its own history and culture, while welcoming visitors with genuine and warm hospitality.
As might easily be supposed, given its geographic location, summers in Muscat are exceptionally warm and humid, with temperatures regularly soaring well above 45˚C. Autumn and spring can also be intemperately hot, leaving the crisper winter season, with its pleasant weather and cooler climes, as undeniably the best time to visit the city.
Whenever you choose to travel, though, the Omani capital boasts plenty of sights that will undoubtedly captivate and exhilarate. The most grandiose of these, perhaps, is the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque – one of the many fine monuments that the late ruler lent his wealth and name during the course of his 45-year rule. Surrounded by lush greenery and glistening with white marble flooring, its four dazzling minarets perfectly offset the towering 90m gold dome of the mosque proper.
Constructed from a staggering 300,000 tonnes of Indian sandalwood, the main prayer hall (or musalla) where visitors of both genders may wander, undoubtedly its biggest draw. Lined with vast Persian carpets, the hall is lit by 34 intricately crafted chandeliers, including a central chandelier that stands a truly immense 14m in height. Its mirabs (semi-circular wall recesses), meanwhile, feature an array of jaw-dropping inlay work in a range of vibrant golds, blues and whites. Visitors to this stunning structure, though, have to follow a strict dress code – men need to wear long-sleeved tops and trousers, while women must cover the whole area between their neck and their knees, while also wearing a headscarf.
Another gorgeous must-visit destination (again built by the former potentate) is the Royal Opera House Muscat. As the story goes, the late ruler, long an aficionado of classical music and the arts, yearned to create world-class opera house within the capital. When it finally opened its doors in 2011, its freshman season saw such luminaries as cellist Yo Yo Ma, Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli and Spanish singer Placido Domingo featured as headline acts.
“The oldest indeendent Arab state, Oman has a history stretches back the dawn of civilisation”
An admirable blend of contemporary Omani architecture, Italian marble and Burmese teak, this gleaming cultural hub not only serves up the finest artistic performances, but also offers an often-startling range of luxury restaurants, upscale shops and beautifully landscaped gardens. At night, the venue is lit with a veritable kaleidoscope of colours, giving this palace of the arts an almost otherworldly aura.
If you hanker after a true glimpse of royal living, however, it’s worth stopping off at the Al Alam Palace in Old Muscat, which was built in 1972 as one of six official residences of the former sultan. Although the castle now only plays a ceremonial role, visitors still aren’t allowed to proceed past its gates. There are still, however, plenty of opportunities to take in the regal architecture of the gold-and-blue royal residence from afar, while snapping a memorable photo or two.
A short five-minute walk away from the Palace lies the Omani French Museum, which was the former residence of the French consul until it was extensively refurbished in 1992. It’s now a must for visiting history buffs, all of whom are sure to be entranced by its array of classic Omani artefacts, historical documents, vintage photography and even 3D models of some of Oman’s more impressive military forts.
For those keen on yet more trips down memory lane, five minutes west lies the Bait Al Zubair Museum, a cultural repository brimming with military paraphernalia, including weaponry, armour and various household items. Those less combat-minded might prefer to take a ten-minute stroll east, which takes you to the gates of The National Museum of Oman. Considered the crown jewel among the city’s museums, its 13,700sq.m space houses 14 separate galleries, collectively tracking every aspect of the nation’s history from times prehistoric to the modern era.
Heading outdoors, no trip to Muscat would be complete without an amble along the Mutrah Corniche, a curved crescent waterside promenade offering a stunning outlook across the Gulf of Oman – including, if you’re lucky, a glimpse of one of the many mammoth mega-yachts owned by the Sultan. Abutting the promenade is the Mutrah Souq, a long-established open-air bazaar offering tourists a ‘traditional’ shopping experience, complete with eager vendors looking to haggle over everything from clothing and antiques to a huge selection of colourful spices.
Once you’ve completed the requisite retail therapy, it’s then time feast on one (or more) of the many local delicacies available from multitude of eateries that line the corniche. Particular recommendations here are shawarma, majboos (a saffron-infused, meat-laden rice dish) or mashuai (roasted kingfish over a bed of lemon-infused rice). Although liquor is strictly prohibited in Muslim Muscat, cup of sweet milk tea (karak) makes a passable enough substitute should you opt to toast this truly remarkable city and its many welcoming residents.
Text & Photos by Tenzing Thondup