Any contemporary haute horology enthusiast setting off for a spot of seafaring adventure is pretty much spoilt for choice when it comes to selecting the right watch to accompany them on their voyages. Indeed, whether you are looking for a current favourite, something a bit more new wave or a watch with hidden depths from established marques, you won’t be disappointed by these newest nautical timepieces.
With its long and storied history of producing first-class sailing watches, it is only sensible to make Rolex your first port of call. In particular, it is worth seeking out one of the venerable watchmaker’s more recent additions to its nautical range – the Oyster Perpetual Yacht Master II.
From the outset, there’s no mistaking its bold maritime allegiance, grandly fore-fronted in both its ocean-blue Activated Ring Command bezel and its aquamarine small seconds dial. It even boasts the marque’s first-ever programmable countdown (complete with a mechanical memory), which neatly rings the small seconds dial.
Another standout amongst today’s nautical timepieces is Zenith’s all-new Defy El Primero 21 Porto Cervo. Taking its name from the beautiful North Sardinian luxury resort, this is a watch redolent with azure, translucent oceanic glory. Housed in a 44mm titanium case, it comes with a translucent white skeletonised dial and a fetching blue and white power reserve indicator. Released in a limited edition of just 25, if you don’t dive straight in, it will almost certainly be too late.
Omega has embraced its inner seafarer, bestowing a distinctly rugged and ready look on its new Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black “Volvo Ocean Race”, a celebratory model marking its longstanding role as official timekeeper to the Volvo Ocean Race. Specially constructed to withstand extreme ocean conditions, it boasts stark black straps, a ceramic casebody and an arresting red rubber / Liquidmetal bezel. Black ceramic dials also highlight each watch’s unique limited edition number – as if their look wasn’t exclusive enough.
Another sporty timepiece suitable for the most macho of mariners is Hublot’s Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud 2018. Eschewing traditional gold or steel on its designer dial, the watchmaker has opted instead for a startling black carbon fibre fascia, ably counterpointed by an innovative blue rubber-carbon fibre strap design. An apt celebration of the 80th edition of the Lake Geneva-based Bol d’Or Mirabaud – the world’s largest inland lake regatta – the watch is available in a limited edition of just 80.
More marine-minded mademoiselles, meanwhile, may be tempted by TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer Lady. While the marque’s DNA is more than apparent in the watch’s 12-sided unidirectional rotating bezel and stainless-steel straps, a touch of novelty is evident in its white SuperLuminova-coated hands and hour markers, an embellishment that sees them glow whenever submerged.
Ulysse Nardin – a brand long-known to favour the more outré approach to haute horology – may tempt avant garde explorers with its aptly-named Freak Out of the Blue. Dispensing with the traditional crown in favour of a more svelte, open-worked fascia, anchor-shaped hands and an eye-catching ‘flying carousel’ tourbillon complete its look. Lest its coastline-eschewing credential be in any doubt, it even comes with sailcloth straps as standard.
Clearly not willing to leave the singular approach to nautical timepieces entirely to Ulysses Nardin, Corum’s marine-themed Admiral 45 Squelette embraces the naked, no-dial look in the marque’s own unique style. The latest addition to the Admiral collection, a range with a half-century heritage, the turquoise, yellow or red hues that accent the varied versions of this latest model bestow upon it a distinctly playful ambience.
With the movements of time and tide inextricably bound together in the human psyche, there’s an almost primordial joy to be had in the very finest examples of haute horology that so beguilingly marry the two. Fortunately, few of the world’s finest watchmakers are immune to the allure of such a union, ensuring that precision nautical timepieces are wholly unlikely to ever sink without trace.
Text: Tenzing Thondup