Port, the fortified wine, may be Portugal’s most famous alcoholic export, but don’t let that fool you into thinking that it’s the only one available. In fact, for a relatively small country, the range of red wines produced in this European nation is quite remarkable. If you want powerful red showstoppers, heading to the Douro Valley is your best bet. For rich, fruity styles, the Alentejo is a solid option, and those in search for softer reds with plenty of fresh acidity should peruse the offerings from Dão.
This breadth of grape varietals is, perhaps, unsurprising when you consider that the region has been producing wines for over four millennia. The Tartessians are believed to have cultivated the first vineyards along the Tagus river around 2,000 BC. When the Phoenicians reached the area, they brought with them grape varieties and winemaking techniques from the Middle East and Carthage.
The Douro in the north is Portugal’s flagship red-wine region, but while it is the oldest demarcated wine region in the world, its fame has historically been due to it being the home of Port. Over the last two decades, however, the Douro’s red table wines found huge favour with discerning oenophiles across the globe – all without relying on the big-hitting red grape varietals like Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah commonly favoured by illustrious French winemakers.
No, in the Douro you’ll find intense, characterful wines with an almost inky richness made from local varieties such as Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca. An excellent example is Vinhas do Sabor 2017 from Vale D. Maria – the recipient of a silver medal from the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC) that year – which displays hefty black fruit and a hint of cedar.
Other regions in the country are also making their presence felt, however. There’s been a shift in recent years towards wine drinkers looking for more freshness and elegance, and few regions do this better than Dão, which boasts a dramatic landscape of granite mountains and pine forests.
In recent years, the global reception of this European nation’s vintages has experienced a staggering surge. Just in the US alone, the ten-month period between January and October 2020 saw sales volume increase by 17 percent, while market value also soared some 15.9 percent from the same time frame in 2019. The UK saw even more phenomenal growth, with a whopping increase of 28.4 percent in volume and 24 percent in market value, according to the country’s promotional body, ViniPortugal. If you’re eager to sample some of Portugal’s fine wines yourself, the following recommendations are a good place to start…
RED ALERT
Vinhas do Sabor 2017, Vale D. Maria, Douro
A supersized wine with enormous fruit and a fantastically integrated massive tannic structure offset by wonderful acidity. Prune, black fruits and a whiff of cedar.
Quinta de S. Francisco 2017, Sanguinhal, Óbidos
Attractive sour cherry and wild strawberries with floral hints. The fresh, wonderfully delineated palate enjoys a long fine finish with a charming lead pencil and savoury fruit character.
Barca-Velha 2011, Casa Ferreirinha, Douro
Elegant and complex, with prominent spices such as pepper, balsamic notes, cedar and tobacco box, red fruits such as ripe plum, slate and high quality, well integrated wood.