The first course came along in the succulent form of the Sea Breeze – delicious scallops, generously coated with lime and wasabi. Topped with slivered almonds and sliced celery, the crunch alone was a taste sensation.
Sampling the First Waves course, we plumped for the spiced lobster salad and the pan roasted langoustine. Presented over a thin layer of Burrata cheese, the lobster salad came with three baby carrot variants – poached, raw and roasted – as well as a subtle broccoli garnish. The langoustine – a slim orange-pink lobster freshly imported from Norway – was served with potato gnocchi and maitake mushrooms, delightfully cooked in a thin brown broth. Freshly baked warm wholegrain bread, dotted with rolled oats and served with olive oil then arrived, as a brief interregnum to the next course.
On to the Blue Lagoon course, heralded by the arrival of a piping hot curried pumpkin soup. Nestling within were Hokkaido prawns, enlivened with the addition of winter spices – notably star anise – with baby croutons completing a truly memorable dish. The pan-seared scallops – served over cheese foam and hazelnut crunch – that accompanied it, proved just as heavenly.
The Great Reef course had much to live up to but didn’t disappoint, with the charcoal-grilled sea bass (served on a bed of tri-colour quinoa and three types of onions – regular, paprika and turmeric infused) proving wholly up to the challenge. The sea bass, with a sweet potato puree and butter cream sauce, was the stand-out
The final course – enigmatically billed solely as “Dessert” – turned out to be a peanut parfait, replete with mini peanuts and milk meringues over a crispy elongated base, topped with red apple skins artfully sculpted into a floral display. It was served alongside a pistachio and chocolate crumble with raspberry sorbet, equally stylishly decorated, and with chocolate branches arranged to create a seabed montage.
At the end of this alluring and fascinating five-course meal, still further treats lay in store, courtesy of a trolleyful of novel and intriguing delights. Our waitress introduced each of the sweet offerings – French macaroons, marshmallows, mini-tarts, delicately-filled chocolates and Madeleine cake to name but a few. Once our choices were made, they were all delightfully served in a Japanese-style specially-partitioned tray.
The Ocean’s impressive menu has been specially created by Agustin Balbi, the restaurant’s French-born executive chef. Having worked extensively in both Argentina and Japan, he has brought his international experience to bear on creating something truly remarkable for this new endeavor.
He plans to refresh the restaurant’s menu every three months, with the current incarnation featuring a number of notably winter-friendly hot dishes. It is also stunning to see just how much thought has gone into the plating and presentation of each menu item. Each dish was not just a treat for the eyes, but also delivered on the visual promise when it came to the palate, with the serving sizes, though small, entirely satisfying on the whole.
Overall, the service was immaculate, with every member of the wait staff seemingly well-versed in the intricacies of the menu, showing extensive knowledge of both the exotic ingredients and the origins of each dish.
Their warmth and friendly attitude was evident throughout, as was their excellent interaction with the guests, with each one greeted individually upon arrival.
THE OCEAN
Address: 3/F The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay, Hong Kong
Reservation: 2889 5939, www.theocean.hk
Food: 9/10
Drinks: 9/10
Ambience: 9/10