Shane Osborn is taking a well-earned break after lunch service at Arcane, his modern European restaurant in Central when we meet on a sunny Monday afternoon. The cool artworks within the space, supplied by contemporary art specialist Flowers Gallery, more than compensate for the high summertime humidity. Not to be outdone, Osborn’s breezy warmth pervades throughout the flagship of a Hong Kong culinary collective that also embraces modern Australian bistro Cornerstone and conscious-dining catering service Victuals by Moxie.
Often referred to as ‘the Pearl of Perth’, after his birthplace, the acclaimed Australian chef has become a prominent figure on the global culinary scene in a career characterised by remarkable achievements and steadfast commitment to quality and sustainability. His journey began with a desire to explore European cuisine, propelling him into a world where creativity and technique converge. If you have yet to taste the passion in his cooking, you can watch it in action on Netflix’s cooking competition for professionals, The Final Table.
Early heat
Growing up in Western Australia, Osborn found himself immersed in a food culture that heavily favoured European styles, particularly French cuisine. This early exposure ignited a simmering fervour for gastronomy and led him to travel to Europe as a budding chef. “I was eager to see and experience French-based cuisine first-hand, which gave me clear direction for my career,” he recalls. After spells working under Gordon Ramsay and Marcus Wareing, his tenacity and dedication landed him a pivotal role at Pied à Terre in London.
At just 29 years old, he became the first Australian head chef to lead a restaurant to Michelin-star commendation. “When I took over Pied à Terre in 2000, it had one Michelin star, and it was very difficult to attract staff as no one believed an Aussie chef could keep the standards required for Michelin,” he reflects. However, his vision and hard work paid off when he won a second star in 2003, dramatically changing the restaurant’s fortunes. “Being the first Australian to win two stars changed the business in such a positive way. I was swamped with CVs after that.”
When a devastating fire in 2004 forced Pied à Terre to close for 10 months, he used the time to expand his culinary horizons through extensive travels across Italy, France and Ireland. When the restaurant reopened, it did so to critical praise, solidifying his position as a trailblazer in the restaurant industry.
Hong Kong flavour
Ever the forward-thinking chef, Osborn initiated a rooftop garden at Pied à Terre that supplied fresh produce directly to his kitchen. This philosophy of sourcing local ingredients has remained a cornerstone of his approach, even as he transitioned to Hong Kong.
In 2011, he left Pied à Terre and embarked on a global tour with his family, settling in Hong Kong a year later to help launch Alan Yau’s St Betty. By 2014, he had embarked on his solo venture, opening Arcane in On Lan Street with a focus on top-quality cuisine and service. “The entire Arcane team has a hand in creating the menu, which is quite different from many fine-dining establishments,” he says.
The restaurant quickly won over local foodies and the media, and in a testament to Osborn’s commitment to excellence, earned its first Michelin star in 2017. His focus on sustainability and quality is evident in every aspect of the operation. “It’s simple really – if we want to continue enjoying good food and running restaurants, the industry simply must adapt [to sustainability and ethical sourcing]. We can’t afford not to be conscious of these things anymore.”
Feast of endeavours
His Hong Kong culinary journey did not stop with Arcane. In 2019, he opened Cornerstone, billed in the Michelin Guide as his “Australian café” – it earned Bib Gourmand recognition within a year. He launched The Arcane Collective in 2021 “to create a space for all our concepts to sit together under one umbrella”.
His participation in The Final Table amplified his reach. Filmed in Los Angeles in 2018, the show saw Osborn and fellow Australian chef Mark Best competing against teams of other international chefs; [spoiler alert] they finished in second place, gaining exposure and friendships that would have lasting impacts on their careers. “The production for the show was incredibly impressive… a fantastic experience and a wonderful opportunity,” he says.
Throughout his career, he has consistently emphasised the importance of collaboration and knowledge sharing. For him, it seems, there is no such thing as ‘too many cooks in the kitchen’. “I believe in leading by example and having open discussions about the betterment of everything we do,” he stresses. “Sharing knowledge is the way to effect positive change.”
Garnishing the future
Osborn’s initiatives are about more than just food; they aim to foster a community of culinary professionals and emphasise the importance of developing talent within the industry. With a focus on ingredient-driven, socially responsible dining, his ventures encourage young chefs and hospitality professionals to innovate and thrive. “I want to continue to help nurture the next generation of culinary talent,” he asserts. His approach has not only contributed to the culinary landscape of Hong Kong but has also inspired a movement towards sustainability in the region.
His focus for the future remains firmly on sustainability and the well-being of the community. Viewing sustainability as essential for the hospitality industry’s future, he advocates for a conscious approach to sourcing ingredients. With enterprises like Victuals by Moxie, he strives to support local farmers and promote healthy eating. “We found there was a growing interest in Hong Kong for sustainable and healthy event-catering options,” he explains, highlighting his dedication to offering both quality meals and responsible sourcing.
Cooking from the heart
As our shoot and interview draw to a close, the exuberant chef excitedly shares that he and his whole team are celebrating a significant anniversary this year. “We set up Arcane 10 years ago this November. the fact that we are still here after surviving the pandemic years is certainly good news to hear.” He acknowledges this milestone with a positive cry: “It should not be a secret that the only way to live is with a happy and grateful heart.”
Through a career defined by groundbreaking achievements and unwavering dedication, Osborn continues to inspire both patrons and aspiring chefs around the world. In the kitchen and out, his work is characterised by a commitment to excellence and an unwavering belief in the future of food. Chef Shane Osborn is truly the Pearl of Perth, with the love of London and a Hong Kong heart.
Photographer: Jack Law Videographer: Jack Fontanilla