Despite the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic, the world’s leading haute couture houses have embraced the onset of spring with a smorgasbord of cuts, colours, patterns and silhouettes. To combat these turbulent times and inject some much-needed positivity and optimism, their latest sartorial statement pieces feature uplifting floral motifs, shimmering sequins, dazzling patterns and much more besides. Without further ado, let’s dive into the best of Spring / Summer 2021…
Balenciaga
Fun, playful but undeniably powerful, Balenciaga’s new Spring / Summer 2021 catwalk is a far cry from the almost dystopian offerings served up by creative director Demna Gvasalia last season. Featuring bold colours and shimmering fabrics, flirty sundresses and bright monochromatic ensembles, this collection is one Gvasalia has designed to embrace optimism in the current turbulent climate.
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta’s SS21 line is a celebration of the softer side of femininity. Eschewing the mix-and-match style of yesteryear, these new sartorial creations embrace the beauty of simplicity, with the emphasis firmly on exploring and enhancing the female form through the deft incorporation of a multitude of fabrics, colours and textures.
Chanel
Epitomising cool Parisian chic, the Spring / Summer 2021 collection from Chanel is awash with boldly patterned, beautifully cut garments that call to mind the alluring screen sirens of ’50s and ’60s Hollywood. It’s a world where attention-grabbing thigh-high slitted dresses, rigidly-structured suits and chunky accessories all coexist in perfect harmony.
Chloé
Creative director Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s newest line is, she claims, a study in how our wardrobes affect our movements. Embodying an undeniable Bohemian vibe, her creations run the gamut from wispy gowns and high-waisted pants to over-sized belts and chunky gladiator sandals. Hiding or enhancing the silhouette in equal measure, all are imbued with undeniably vibrant energy.
Dior
“We are living in a different way and staying more at home within our intimacy. Our clothes have to reflect this new style of life.” So says creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri. So, Dior’s new collection blends desirability and comfort in equal measure, placing the spotlight firmly on diaphanous robes and gowns that are as seductive as they are wearable.
Dolce & Gabbana
Artistic patchwork is the name of the game for Dolce & Gabbana’s latest SS21 collection. Crafted from an amalgam of materials – brocades, chiffons, georgettes – that pay tribute to the traditional handcraftsmanship skill of Italy. Each has been tempered with the brand founders’ signature audacity, with clashing patterns and hues all clamouring for attention.
Fendi
In a bid to escape the realities of a Covid-19-ridden world, Fendi’s SS21 collection transports wearers to a fairytale land, one punctuated with shimmering sequins, voluminious floor-length gowns and flirtatiously sheer numbers that entrance at every turn. Interspersed between the elegant and ethereal designs is loungewear that looks no less fashionable for its comfortable cuts.
Giorgio Armani
Shades of blue dominate Giorgio Armani’s latest Spring / Summer 2021 creations, with loose, flowing silhouettes a recurring motif throughout. Be it a daring deep-cut floor-length number or the casual chic of satin pant suits, these ensembles lovingly drape the female form for every occasion, while leaving just enough room to ensure maximum wearability.
Givenchy
Geometric experimentation seems to be the name of the game for Givenchy’s latest seasonal offerings. From the sharp, rigidly structured shoulders of a leather jacket to diamond-shaped halter tops and cut-out skeleton trousers, these avant-garde looks are sure to appeal to any forward-thinking, futuristic-leaning fashionista…
Hermés
Once again proving the impact of the ongoing pandemic on the haute couture fashion industry, the new Spring / Summer 2021 collection from Hermès has clearly pared back on any unnecessary frills, emphasising minimalist comfort above all else. There’s still an element of the outré interjected liberally throughout, as evidenced by peek-a-boo bralettes and a skin-baring netted number.
Loewe
For his debut Spring / Summer season at Loewe, creative director Matthew Williams has unveiled a series of intricately crafted garments that celebrate the lightness of air. Voluminous to the extreme, his judicious use of layering – as apparent in a sheer caped gown, an hourglass-figure gown and mushrooming dresses and sleeves – add a welcome dash of playfulness to proceedings.
Louis Vuitton
“My question this season was less about one theme; it was about this zone between femininity and masculinity,” says creative head Nicholas Ghesquière. And so his collection reveals a clear androgynous aesthetic, with broad, structured shoulders and baggy, high-waisted trousers apparent throughout, enhanced by an array of the brand’s iconic leather bags with a similarly gender-bending treatment.
Moschino
Brimming with whimsical flourishes, Moschino’s catwalk show replaced the traditional models with fantastical marionettes this year, life-sized models that were adorned with an array of princess-like, Barbie-esque outfits. A masterclass in handcraftsmanship skills, they espouse expouse a delicate femininity that nonetheless leave a powerful impact.
Prada
The debut collection to spawn from co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons catapults the clutch coat to new heights, with these designs – in both monochromatic hues and loud prints – proudly proclaiming the pair’s love for all things outerwear. Interspersed throughout are monogrammed shirts, cut-out sleeves and pointed V-shaped shoes in every imaginable hue.
Salvatore Ferragamo
In a true celebration of the modern woman, Ferragamo explores multidimensional styles and physicalities this season. From sleeveless tops and shoulderless dresses to leather suits and onesies, it’s a collection that values flexibility above all. The colour palette here is quintessentially Ferragamo, with shots of emerald green and blood red judiciously softened by gentle pastel hues.
Valentino
Following in the footsteps of the many brands who’ve streamlined their Spring / Summer collections this year, Valentino’s new designs are noticably lacking in the hyperbolic flourishes that have characterised its past look books. The focus, instead, is on easy-to-wear – though no less attractive – apparel such as sheer kaftans and blouses, minimalist minidresses and beautiful monochrome accessories.
Versace
Even the briefest of glances at Versace’s SS21 collection reveals an unabashedly oceanic-inspired appeal, one that transports you to a colourful, fun beachside romp. Nowhere is this motif more apparent than in the numerous starfish accents that punctuate the gowns, jacket lapels and bralettes liberally sprinkled across the 70-odd looks in its latest line.
YSL
Disco fever is back in a big way with YSL’s Spring / Summer 2021 line. Embracing a ’60s-era hippie chic, it brings back much-loved trends of that era, as seen in a fur-lined flower-power dress, bell-bottom pants and even over-sized flower earrings for good measure. “I wanted to speak to the comfort of the ’60s and to the comfort of today,” says YSL’s creative director Anthony Vaccarello of the collection.