Famed for its vivid landscapes and classic ruins, Sri Lanka – the Pearl of the Indian Ocean – also boasts stunning beaches, friendly locals and, of course, an abundance of its famous tea. Yet for many years, it’s been somewhat overlooked thanks to a 26-year-long civil war.
Now, nearly 10 years after peace broke out, this island nation is back on the travel agenda of many of the better-informed tourists. While, over to the North, the country’s Cultural Triangle has suffered near-death-by-Instagram, the South has retained much of its mystique. Indeed, a trip from the Central Province to the far(ish) South coast provides a far more satisfying and singular experience.
Any such venture off the track more beaten should definitely take in Madulkelle, a picturesque tea plantation set close to Kandy, the country’s sweet-as-it-sounds former capital. In order to fully explore this delightful setting, it’s best to book into the Madulkelle Tea & Eco Lodge, tucked neatly into the Knuckles Mountain Range some 1,000 metres above sea level.
As you wake to the sounds of the region’s exotic birdlife stirring, you can look out across majestic mountains, verdant valleys and rolling tea plantations, all yours to explore. This, though, is best done in the company of an experienced guide. Only then can you be sure you’ll take in the most tropical trails, swim below postcard-ready waterfalls and navigate your way through some occasionally dense forestry.
Trekking southwards from Madulkelle takes you to Nuwara Eliya, the city at the heart of the mighty tea industry in Sri Lanka. Much-loved during the British colonial era, a hint of times imperial is still more than apparent at one of the true local landmarks – the Grand Hotel. Built in 1828 in a style elegant enough to befit the residence of Sir Edward Barnes, the then-governor, this manor house has retained much of its colonial-era look.
For those keen on tea, book a tour of the Pedro Tea Estate. Here you will be expertly guided through the whole tea-making process – from cultivating and grading to dispatching to the world’s breakfast tables. Don’t forget to also take in the estate’s coruscating Lovers Leap Waterfall.
For an, arguably, more authentic encounter with the surrounding Hill Country, it’s well worth taking the Ella-bound train. Be sure to book your tickets in advance if you want to secure seats with the best views, a privilege that sees you perfectly placed to watch the region’s sari-clad tea pickers hard at work.
Upon arriving in Ella – a tiny town some 200km from the capital – take a minute or two to watch the local trains pass majestically over the iconic Nine Arch Bridge. Again a colonial construct, given it is set nearly 3,100 metres above sea level, it is difficult to conceive of the hard work that went into dragging so much rock, stone and cement to such an altitude.
Next, it’s time to head South yet again – ideally in air-conditioned comfort – as the coast beckons and your sand and sea quota is, as yet, unfilled. Heading for Tangalle, one of the South Coast’s less-frequented resorts is probably advisable, particularly during the high season.
Blessed with one of the most extensive bays in Sri Lanka, its maritime charms were once fought over by the Brits and the Dutch. Today, several well-preserved buildings – notably the Dutch Fort, the Rest House and the Court House – remain as clear reminders of the European interlopers of yesteryears.
Beyond its past, this is the ideal spot to look to the immediate future, with dawns and sunsets in Sri Lanka never better framed than by the seemingly endless sands of the nearby Goyambokka beach. Suitably spiritually refreshed, you can sustain your meditative mood with a spot of whale-watching over at Mirrissa, the South Coast’s largest fishing port.
In the age of over-tourism, Sri Lanka has retained an innate authenticity. Coupled with its natural beauty and cultural delights, this makes the island nation an intriguing option for the more discerning vacationer.
A word of advice, though, with the Sri Lanka Tourism Board hopeful of attracting five million tourists a year from 2025 onwards, that innate authenticity may not linger all that much longer.
Text: Hira Desai
Images: AFP, Madulkelle Tea & Eco Lodge