Binge Watch: Seven standouts from Macau’s Masters of Time exhibition

Exploring the 450 watches of Masters of Time

Duty-free retailer DFS opened its ninth Masters of Time luxury watch exhibition in Macau in extravagant fashion. There were interactive pop-ups, whisky and caviar tastings, and live performances by Hong Kong songstress Jade Kwan and violin DJ Olivia Dawn.

But even without the flash and panache, it’s clear that DFS has its ear to the ground, following the latest haute horlogerie trends in a bid to give high-end watch collectors exactly what they’re looking for.

Over 450 pieces from 30 luxury brands were assembled for this year’s showcase, which runs until 28 February at T Galleria by DFS inside the Shoppes at Four Seasons.

Unique timepieces on show at Masters of Time

Christophe Chaix, Senior Vice President of Global Merchandising at DFS, says there is no real equivalent to Masters of Time. “Of course there are trade shows like Baselworld and SIHH, but there is no other exhibition like this in the world dedicated to the end consumer,” Chaix says.

His confidence is not misplaced. In just nine years, the annual exhibition has become one of Asia’s premier watch events, drawing collectors from China, Singapore, Australia and beyond.

In that time, discerning women collectors have become one of the industry’s fastest-growing segments. No longer satisfied with simple watches in frilly decorative packaging, the fairer sex is now demanding mechanical complications on par with their male counterparts. And Masters of Time has risen to the challenge.

4. Jacquet Droz Lady 8

One of the best models from its selection of women’s watches is Jaquet Droz’s Lady 8 Flower, a perfect blend of beauty and complexity. Fitted with a self-winding mechanical movement, the design’s centrepiece is a lotus perched atop a blue sapphire-studded bezel. A press of the button opens its petals to reveal a faceted diamond briolette rotating on its axis.

Another women’s watch that may appeal to collectors is Breguet’s individually numbered and signed Tradition 7038, the first model for ladies in its Tradition collection. Although slightly on the large side at 37mm, it owes its unmistakable femininity to a diamond-set bezel, mother-of- pearl dial and white alligator leather strap.

5. Breguet's Tradition Dame 7038

While complex timepieces for ladies are still relatively rare, Masters of Time is a horological treasure trove for the discerning male collector.

Classic craftsmanship never goes out of style, and Jaeger-LeCoultre is playing to its strengths with the Master Gyrotourbillon 1. Boasting a dual-axis tourbillon movement, this elegant timepiece also shows the date and includes a perpetual calendar and an equation of time complication. The dial’s intricate mother-of-pearl lacework and aventurine stone marquetry evoke images of a clear night sky.

Heritage watches also feature prominently at Masters of Time this year, such as Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon. Paying tribute to the brand’s nautical history, the handcrafted marquetry on its pine oak dial imitates a ship’s deck, while the arching minute hand resembles a ship’s boom. Add to that a visible flying tourbillon and this 18-piece model is a guaranteed conversation starter.

6. Ulysse Nardin's Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon

Another homage timepiece is Blancpain’s limited-edition Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec. The original Fifty Fathoms debuted in 1953 as the world’s first automatic diving watch, and fortunately, the current model retains that vintage vibe while still meeting modern divers’ needs with its uni-rotational bezel and water tightness indicator.

As far as contemporary timepieces go, sports watches are all the rage. In particular, partnerships between luxury car manufacturers and horology houses have spawned some interesting timepieces. Several are on show at Masters of Time, including Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Aventador S (featured in Gafencu’s November issue) and Hublot’s Techframe Ferrari 70 Years King Gold Tourbillon Chronograph.

8 Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Automatic Chronograph 45MM

The true feather in DFS’ cap, though, is the special edition Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Automatic Chronograph 45mm from Tag Heuer. This one-of-a-kind timepiece was created especially for Masters of Time, with its hands, hour markers and strap all outfitted in the luxury retailer’s signature red.

Sadly, this watch is no longer on the market, having been snapped up by an eager collector before the exhibition even began.

With so many watches on display, it’s hard to characterise Masters of Time in a singular way. Suffice it to say, a trip to the exhibition is an illuminating lesson in the sheer diversity that exists in the world of modern watchmaking.

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Images: DFS

Blancpain showcases stunning Metiers d’Art collection in Hong Kong

Anyone who stepped into Blancpain’s Metiers d’Art exhibition at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental might have wondered if they’d entered an art gallery instead. Given the impeccable artistry of the stunning timepieces on display, the mistake was understandable.

Guests were treated to a fantastic display of one-of-the-kind watches such as the Villeret Ganesh and cherry blossom-themed 8 Jours Manuelle. The individual dial of each Metiers d’Art creation showcased one of four incredible techniques: enamel painting, detailed engraving, damasquinage and shakudo.

Opening night attendees were invited to learn more about each unique style and watch live demonstrations of dial painting and engraving in an exclusive and intimate setting. The latter is also part of Blancpain’s new bespoke service which allows high-end watch collectors to personalise and influence their own Metiers d’Art design.

Blancpain’s Vice President and Head of Sales Marc Junod described the unique collection and bespoke service as a dual-pronged approach to introduce the 282-year-old watch brand to a new audience, while also building a more interactive relationship with high-end watch collectors.

“It’s one thing to come up with a watch and launch it at the Baselworld watch fair,” explained Junod, “it’s much more interesting to sit down with someone from the get go and come up with an idea and a unique creation. It becomes a personal journey.”

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Images: Gigi Ip, Blancpain

At the winding up of the year, there’s no present like the time

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Time and tide wait for no man,” according to Geoffrey Chaucer, that renowned 12 century poet and wit, and neither does Christmas, bringing with it the perennial challenge of choosing quite the perfect present for your loved ones and in-laws. Luckily for chronophiles and lovers of haute horology everywhere, ‘tis also the season that heralds the advent of a veritable sledful of new releases from the world’s most respected luxury watchmakers.

While this certainly provides no shortage of choice, it can also prove somewhat daunting prospect, with eager givers obliged to scour a myriad of look books and slow-loading websites in order to identify just the perfect timepiece. Keen make your life a little easier over the festive period, we’ve singled out a few of the more outstanding examples of haute horology, all conveniently hitting the shelves just in time for you to festively gift-wrap them for a life partner or loved one.

Just as two luxurious timepieces are never quite the same, neither are those aficionados who truly covet them. Where one chronograph connoisseur might value aesthetics above all else, another heart may be set aflutter by functionality and precision. For those looking to play it safe, Chopard’s Imperiale Joaillerie watch pretty much covers all the requisite bases.

Meticulously crafted over 1,012 arduous watchmaking hours by keen artisans of the highest order, this is a lavishly dazzling timepiece and one quite unlike any other. Undeniably captivating, the watch is set with 581 sapphires – totalling 47.98 carats – that run the gamut from the subtler chromatic shades right through to a universe of blues, reds and yellows. This is a timepiece that needs to be seen at first hand to be truly appreciated. A genuine work of art, this 18 carat rose gold watch comes set with baguette-cut sapphires, creating a pleasingly chromatic aberration across the dial.

Every bit as impressive is the Chopard 01.03-C calibre that powers the Imperiale Joaillerie. Beating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, it also boasts a 60-hour power reserve. Certainly not the choice for those apt to dodge the social spotlight, this is the perfect watch for those ladies who like to make an instant impression and who will resonate with its display of colour and glamour.

On the more demure end of the aesthetic scale comes watch that was the smallest circular timepiece available when it made its 1956 debut. The Blancpain Ladybird was a watch that revolutionised feminine timepieces 60 years ago. Since then, it has been subject to variety updates, as the marque sought to maintain its modernity and elegance, while never compromising its bold, ageless aesthetic.

The latest Ladybird is powered by the new automatic calibre 6150, and – at just 15.7 mm – it remains one of the smallest such watches the world has ever seen. Set with 32 diamonds atop its bezel, with eight diamonds ringing its dial and all fetchingly framed in white gold, this newest incarnation is as elegant as it is pioneering. Finished with a Louisiana alligator strap and a clear caseback – allowing a view of the intriguing inner workings of the winding rotor – the Ladybird remains a truly classic timepiece.

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Another classic to have undergone something of a modern makeover is the Tank Solo. Unmistakeably Cartier, this elegant timepiece features the marque’s iconic square watch face, all adorned with the company’s instantly recognisable Roman numeral hour indicators. Distinguished yet modest, the Tank Solo is available in a more feminine 31mm edition or in a resolutely 40.85mm edition, with both encased in stainless steel and displaying a silvered opaline dial, as well as the brand’s unique sword-shaped blue steel hands.

Although the Tank Solo is the last word in simplicity and elegance, an added frisson of customisability comes in its choice of interchangeable straps, with options ranging from the earthier pantone shades to bright zesty hues. These ensuring that the wearer can express a flash of individuality, while also ensuring that your watchband never clashes with your evening’s overall ensemble.

Another truly iconic timepiece – and one that has proved a benchmark in the luxury watch sector ever since its 1979 debut – is the Piaget Polo S. As its name more than suggests, this particular watch takes its styling from the equestrian pastime so beloved by the affluently sporty, with its opulent aesthetic a clear nod to the game that inspired it.

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A playful take on geometric patterns, the Polo S houses a cushion-shaped dial within a round stainless steel case, tastefully completed with the addition of a sapphire case back. Discernible through the rear sapphire mounting is Piaget’s 1110P or 1160P automatic movement (depending on the model specified). All sized at 42mm, the Polo S is available in five variants, coming in a choice of appliqués with the option of several different chronographic functions. All of the editions, however, come with a steel bracelet with alternating polished and satin links, a fine finish to its ruggedly elegant look.

Our final offering in this festive round up of fine watches comes courtesy of a brand long synonymous with true horological beauty. From Itay’s Maison Bulgari comes the Octo Ultranero range of timepieces, a range that exudes an air of almost arcane sophistication, while sacrificing nothing in the way of functionality.

With a striking and powerful black overall motif, these watches are powered by the brand’s proprietary Solotempo BVL 193 movement, vibrating at a frequency of 28,800 per hour and with power reserve of more than 50 hours. In fetching contrast to the black dial and black rubber strap is piece’s rose gold detailing – most notably, its hour markers and hands – that adds a touch of refinement to the wilfully bleak functionality of this highly practical watch. With four different models to choose from, these are timepieces that look every bit as good at a black tie event as they do on the deck of your personal yacht. All in all, the perfect marriage of form and function and, of course, that unmistakeable air of Bulgari sophistication.

From dazzling diamonds to romantic rubies, bejewelled timepieces are true horological gold

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Charles Blanc, the renowned 19th century French art critic, once said: “The diamond and other precious stones are focuses of light, and essences of colour which seem expressly created to ornament on a small scale the human body with all the splendours which adorn the universe on a large scale.” This, it would seem, is a sentiment shared by Haute Horologists the world over, at least if the vast array of fine watches adorned with jewels and precious stones are anything to go by.

Literally translated from the French, Haute Horlogerie means “the high art of watchmaking.” Since 2005, however, when the “Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie” was founded, the term has solely referred to the 28 members of that particular horological foundation, with them collectively representing the world’s most prestigious luxury watchmakers.

Indeed in today’s modern age of virtual merchandise and 3D-printables, it is comforting to see that Haute Horlogerie remains a true art form. With no shortcuts, neither time nor expense is spared when crafting the finest possible timepieces, in both aesthetic and functional terms. Here the use of magnificent jewels to adorn a timepiece is seen as the truest expression of a watchmaker’s passion – the exquisite beauty that is the perfect fusion of Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie – “the art of fine jewellery.”

One such watchmaker is Rolex, a marque long synonymous with luxury timepieces fit for the world’s most stylish individuals. Making its debut at this year’s Baselworld, the “Pearlmaster 39” is a perfect example of the glorious synergy between Haute Horlogerie and Joaillerie. A new version of the Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster, the Pearlmaster 39, is a lady’s watch and one for those that are certain that diamonds are, indeed, a girl’s best friend. Crafted in 18 carat everose gold, this 39 mm watch comes adorned with no less than 36 rare brilliant-cut diamonds, making it truly a dazzling piece to behold. While the exterior of the watch is steeped in splendour, the functionality of the piece itself remains a reflection of Rolex’s dedication to innovation and technology.

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In total, some 14 new patents were required to make this watch possible.

The adoption of such cutting-edge technology has resulted in increased precision, a greater power reserve, enhanced shock and magnetic resistance, and improved reliability. The Pearlmaster is in fact manufactured in an exclusive paramagnetic alloy, one that houses the self-winding calibre 3235 with its impressive 70 hours of power reserve. It is also 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring watch. The outside of the case is decorated with 31 rubies, adding a further touch of flair to an already spectacular timepiece. With Christmas just around the corner, if a certain lady has a fondness for jewels, this is the perfect gift.

Another watch that happily pays homage to pressurised carbon in its most iconic form is the Chopard Happy Diamonds watch. A preeminent part of the Chopard collection, the idea for Happy Diamonds came when Ronald Kurowski, Chopard’s lead designer, took a walk in the Black Forest. There he espied a stunning sunlight-bathed waterfall, a vision he sought to recreate through his chosen profession. This ladies’ watch is available in a round or cushion-shaped dial with its 18-carat gold case perfectly framed in black.

The time display, meanwhile, is fetchingly set in an inner dial, while the prong-set diamonds playfully dance around the outer dial, all set against a white mother-of-pearl background. With more jewels than any previous incarnation – 15 in total, in a variety of sizes – this particular timepiece is never less than magnificently dazzling. A limited edition of just 150, the watch comes with an elegant black brushed canvas strap as standard.

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Another member of the exclusive foundation is, of course, the ever-eminent Piaget. Three years in the making, the company’s Altiplano 900D bears the distinction of being the thinnest luxury watch on the market, coming in at a mere 3.65 mm. Along with this ultra-thin build comes a host of other design firsts, making the watch as unique as it is prestigious. In order to achieve its trademark slender look, the case and movement of this watch are functionally one. The result is a triumph of both Haute Horlogerie and Joaillerie, with the watch finely decorated with brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamonds. In the case of the 1200D model in white gold, there are 259 brilliant-cut diamonds while the 1270D is decorated with 71 baguette-cut and 561 brilliant-cut diamonds. If diamonds really are forever, this timepiece is set for a very long and sparkling lifespan.

Yet another famous Swiss maison and purveyor of true horological beauty is Jaquet Droz. As a celebration of nearly three centuries of historic expertise, the marque’s Petite Heure Minute Thousand Year Lights is nigh on perfect. As its name suggests, this timepiece is all about radiance, something it delivers in a truly spectacular fashion thanks to the hand-painted, lacquered, mother-of-pearl floral decoration that lavishly adorns its dial. A perfect complement to this comes with the option of featuring a further ring of diamonds bordering the dial and case. Unmistakably feminine and exquisitely refined, the floral tableaux is applied using a little-practiced traditional technique. Available in five variations, all encased in red or white gold cases, each version is limited to just 28 pieces. The watch also features a 68-hour power reserve and comes with the option of a black or deep blue alligator leather strap.

One name that certainly needs no introduction in the world of Haute Horlogerie is Blancpain. Steadfast pioneers of women’s horology, Blancpain made the very first self-winding wristwatch specifically for ladies back in 1930. Simply billed as the Women’s Collection, this watch is proof most positive that horological appreciation has always been far more than a male preserve. This watch, which debuted at Baselworld 2014, features 152 diamonds, 108 of which adorn its 36.8 mm red gold case.
Its white mother-of-pearl dial, sprinkled with faceted diamonds, features an off-centre sub-dial at 12 o’clock with the Blancpain signature perfectly balanced at 6 o’clock. Within the watch beats a new 226 part mechanical self-winding movement – the calibre 2663SR – which is visible through its sapphire crystal case back. The Women’s Collection is also available in white gold with a blue mother-of-pearl dial or a steel case with a white dial. Both gold versions are complemented by a white ostrich leather strap, while the steel incarnation comes with an alligator leather strap.

Time Honoured

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For many of the major watch brands, Baselworld 2016 proved a particularly nostalgic affair. Overall, it is a time of great change in the sector. On one side, high-end smart watches are redefining the world of luxury wristwear while, in a continuing worry, many of haute horology’s core markets are still blighted by economic uncertainties, with cautious spending the order of the day.

It is, perhaps, not surprising then, that many marques have turned noticeably wistful, revisiting the models and styles of their heyday. Last month, in the first part of our annual review of the very best of Baselworld, we focussed on a number of revisited classics from Rolex and Omega – the Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona and the Moonphase Speedmaster, respectively. There were, however, far more brands apparently keen to recapture that special magic of yesteryear.

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This was explicitly the case for Girard Perregeaux, with the high-end Swiss manufacturer making a point of highlighting the upgrade to its Laureato range. First introduced in 1975 – like today, a challenging time for the luxury watch industry – the original Laureato had to contend with the dawn of the age of the quartz movement, while a number of new materials were beginning to make an impact. While, today, it is ceramic, stone and the more exotic metals that are the arrivistes, back then it was steel.

Appropriately enough, then, the re-imagined Laureato comes in stainless steel, while also retaining the octagonal, polished bezel of its illustrious predecessor. Fetchingly framing the dial – in a choice of white, grey or navy blue – the bezel comes with the imprimatur  of a Clou de Paris checkerboard pattern, another knowing nod to the 1975 debut edit.

The 2016 incarnation has been released in a limited edition of just 225 models in each of the two dial styles. Each watch retails for around US$14,300 and, such has been there popularity, Girard Perregeaux is said be considering making the watch a permanent addition to its collection.

As a knock-on from so many brands consciously revisiting their past triumphs, there was also a striking return for a number of classic sporting timepieces.  One of the most significant of those came courtesy of Longines, with the company lovingly recreating its Equestrian Pocket Watch Jockey, first issued in 1878. The original watch featured the marque’s first chronograph movement, an addition that made it possible to measure performances to the split-second. It was on the back of this that Longines established its pre-eminent association with the American racetracks, a connection that has continued to this day.

The 21st century Pocket Jockey comes in a limited and numbered edition of just 20 units, with each one boasting an engraving of a jockey and his mount on its rose gold cover. Set beneath this is a hand-wound movement, complete with a column-wheel chronograph mechanism that can be activated via a push button on the winding crown. It blued-steel column wheel can be viewed by opening the engraved cover. As with its influential forerunner, the watch marks seconds – in this case via a small 6 o’clock-mounted dial.

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Another brand with clear links to an illustrious sporting past is Blancpain, with the company choosing to mark this with a new edition of its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe. First produced in 1953, and cinematically endorsed by Jacques Cousteau, the legendary French aquanaut, Blancpain last revisited its masterpiece in 2003, the occasion of this particular watch’s  50th anniversary.

The 2016 version is markedly different, coming in a plasma grey ceramic case for the first time. It also features a deep blue dial, one intentionally evocative of the depths of the sea. Its bezel – again in plasma grey ceramic – comes equipped with a blue ceramic insert featuring Liquidmetal hour markers, an alloy said to withstand all distortions.

The watch’s original function as a diver’s watch was betrayed by its luminous bezel-mounted index, a faithful nod to the original Bathyscaphe. Priced at US$12,800, it is a fair hike compared to last year’s stainless steel incarnation. Buyers, however, seemed far from deterred by its inflated price tag, a clear sign of the quality of this quite extraordinary feat of horological engineering.

Not every brand, however, took a retrospective approach. Bulgari – in a move that garnered considerable attention – chose a defiantly forward-looking stance, introducing a timepiece that notably raised the bar. The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is the world’s thinnest minute repeater, elegantly employing a series of differently pitched chimes to tell the time to the nearest minute.

Complicated thin wristwatch movements, as manifestly presented here, are rare and understandably so, due to the technical challenges involved in creating them. Very few companies have mastered the requisite precision techniques, with Bulgari a comparative newcomer to this elite fraternity, gaining admission with the 2014 rendition of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon as its calling card.

With the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, its case is just 6.85mm thick, more than a millimetre thinner than the previous “thinnest minute repeater” – a much-loved offering from Vacheron Constantin – and comes in at 40mm wide.

Fashioned from titanium – a logical choice given its strength and light weight, the metal also has none of the sound-deadening qualities of gold or platinum. A further stylistic innovation, although one with a clearly practical bent, is the way that the hour markers and small second dial have been cut out from the dial, rather than being embedded. As well as looking suitably elegant, this allows the interior case space to be used to its fullest as a resonance chamber for the chimes.

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Taking a somewhat different approach to both its past and future glories was Glashütte Original. This year, it offered a new take on its Senator Chronometer, a piece first introduced back in 2009 as a conscious homage to those marine chronometers that were produced in the 1940s and 1950s.

The version debuting at Baselworld, however, notably upgraded the design along more contemporary lines. The case was slimmer, and fashioned from white gold, as were the stylishly and elegantly designed hands.

Taking a peek inside, the Senator Chronometer is driven by the manual winding Calibre 58-01, while also boasting a refined second-stop mechanism. When the crown is pulled out, the time display stops and the second hand is reset to zero, holding there while the minute hand jumps ahead to the next full minute index. This ensures that the exact relationship between seconds and minutes can be continuously maintained.

Another brand that opted to make significant revisions to one of its landmark pieces was Tudor, the innovative Swiss watchmaker now approaching its 50th anniversary. This year, the company unveiled a new addition to its Heritage Black Bay collection, one fashioned largely in bronze.

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Recent years have seen the company experiment with a variety of colours for the Black Bay, with red, blue and black bezels all having put in an appearance. Bronze, of course, comes with some particular historical connotations, most notably its echo of the classic deep-sea diver’s helmet.

As with the nautical headgear that inspired it, its colour will inevitably change over time, gaining a distinct greeny patina. Other than its colour, the new model maintains a great deal of the look and style of the earlier Black Bays – snowflake hands, a large crown and a clean and easy to read design.

While this updated model characteristically features numbers at the three, six and nine o’clock positions, there are few stylistic differences lurking below the surface. This, for instance, is the first Black Bay to use Tudor’s in-house movement. As with the rest of the family, its calibre MT5061 boasts a 70-hour power reserve, while its chronometer-rated movement has been certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC).

It is perhaps significant that at such a challenging time for the luxury watch industry, so many have chosen to emphasise their historic achievements. While Longines’ Equestrian Pocket Watch Jockey may capitalise on the brand’s legacy in a different way to Tudor’s Heritage Black Bay, both celebrate landmark achievements, while adding that degree of contemporary functionality.

At a time when new companies and new technologies are at the very gates of the haute horology citadel, it is no surprise that the old masters turn to a daunting fusion of tradition and innovation as their surest line of defence. These, after all, were the two principles on which the industry was born.