Diamond-doting auction-goers were no doubt delighted by the impressive array of jewels and jadeites that went under the hammer under the careful scrutiny of Phillips Hong Kong earlier this year. Overall, though, the most must-have of the many top trinkets on offer was a unique and spectacular 43.40-carat Briolette diamond and ruby gem-set Jambi necklace, paired with a set of Cartier pendant earrings, which went for an undeniably dazzling US$1.3 million (HK$10.7 million).
The Briolette style of diamond cutting is said to be one of the most time-honoured gem-honing techniques. Originally pioneered and perfected in India, its history stretches back more than 800 years. Essentially, the process results in the presentation of a finished pear- or drop-shaped diamond, covered in triangular facets across its entire surface. Uniquely, this approach allows light to enter the gem and be refracted from all sides, resulting in some of the most unforgettable of all precious stone settings. Cartier, a brand with a deep attachment to all things Far East, has named the necklace “Sumatra”, a knowing nod to the ancient name after which modern-day Indonesia takes its name.
SIHH Standouts: Highlights from the Geneva-based haute horology fair
No matter how nice a watch you got for Christmas or just which top timepiece you wielded as you ticked down the dying seconds of 2018 in Victoria Harbour, your head was probably half-elsewhere – almost certainly more than 9,500km away in Geneva, the second-largest city in Switzerland and – far more importantly – home to the annual Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). An event that almost every true haute horologist across the world looks forward to, more than 20,000 of them make an annual pilgrimage to the Salon to see just what the world of watches has in store for the coming year…
As ever, the 2019 edition – the 29th iteration of the event – saw hundreds of dazzling dials, burnished bezels and marvellous movements all unveiled for the many keen acolytes of accurate timekeeping in attendance. While, in truth, every one was a wonder of watchmaking wizardry, seven superb, collector-friendly chronographs particularly stood out…
Cartier Libre Collection Baignoire Allongée Black
In a knowing nod to the rise of watch-minded women everywhere, Cartier opted to use the event as the launchpad for the latest additions to its Cartier Libre Collection. Multicoloured, multi-faceted and bejewelled to the hilt, each of these distinctly avant-garde timepieces was an apt celebration of the beauty of non-conformity, complete with a selection of unconventional bezels and dials that proved both sophisticated and playful.
Piaget Altiplano – 36mm
Piaget, meanwhile, opted for a subtler approach, with its undeniably understated Piaget Altiplano – 36mm boasting a classic dark blue-white gold combination, while a selection of baguette-cut diamonds proved fine enhancements to its bezel and hour markers. With an ultrathin Calibre 430P movement as standard, this 36mm watch was made for the wrist of a truly femme fashionista.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel
Debonair gentlemen looking for a similarly uncluttered conceit were best steered towards Jaeger-LeCoultre’s elegant Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel. Once again, a blue-and-white gold colour scheme dominated, with the watch’s handcrafted guilloché blue enamel dial an apt showcase of the marque’s artisanal skills. Just over 10mm in depth, its crowning jewel is undoubtedly its reworked 6 o’clock moon-phase setting.
Arceau 78 by Hermès
Another fine example of the ‘less is more’ conceit was Hermès’ Arceau 78. A model first made public in 1978, this latest incarnation features a fetchingly grained anthracite dial, intriguingly ringed by a matte beat-blasted bezel. In a break from tradition, its numeral hour markers are slightly italicised, giving the look of a horse at full gallop. Dubbed a Very Large Model (40mm) and fitted with natural Barénia calf straps, this is minimalism to the max.
Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “Le Petit Prince” by IWC
Moving to the somewhat sportier end of the spectrum, IWC had on offer a very special limited edition – the Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “Le Petit Prince”. Created in collaboration with the estate of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (the author of The Little Prince), just 10 such items will be made. The product of a truly unique partnership, it is both the first pilot watch ever to feature a constant force tourbillon and the first to be fashioned from a special, ultraresistant red gold. In another plus, its perpetual moon phase complication won’t require any adjustment until at least 2595.
Eschewing outer space for deep sea depths, Panerai introduced a timepiece co-authored with Guillaume Néry, the French free-diving champion – the Panerai Submersible Chrono – Guillaume Néry Edition. Combining performance, strength and reliability, its robust and waterproof titanium case, its unidirectional rotating bezel and its luminescent hour markers have all been designed with the safety of underwater explorers very much in mind.
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “Camo”
And finally, rounding out this year’s list of SIHH standouts were the latest additions to Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore collection – the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “Camo”. Of the three new versions, it is perhaps the company’s first-ever brownceramic chronogram that merits most approbation. Crafted in pink gold and mounted on caramel-and-brown camouflage rubber straps, an extra-large Mega Tapisserie chequerboard guillochéd dial completes this 44mm watch’s rugged appeal.
Once again, SIHH did not disappoint, allowing all attendees a tantalising glimpse of many of the latest trends in global haute horology. From marvellously minimalist designs to super-sporty standouts, from artisanal avant gardery to precision-built mechanical marvels, no technique lacked a true showpiece, no style was bereft of a standard-bearer and no complication was denied its day in the Swiss sunshine. And, take heart, the next SIHH showcase is now just over a year away.
Text: Tenzing Thondup
A Cartier Christmas: French jeweller embraces festive spirit at Tai Kwun
With a Christmas celebration that would make even Père Noël proud, French maison Cartier transformed Hong Kong’s iconic Tai Kwun Centre for Heritage and Arts recently, ushering in the festive spirit for the community and holiday lovers alike.
Not your typical caroling carousal, a Cartier Christmas wowed patrons with a festive assortment of entertainment and vibrant attractions, kicking off the show with a lighting ceremony officiated by the brand’s Regional Managing Director of Cartier North Asia, Nigel Luk. What followed was surely a delight to the ears of those gathered, a musical performance led by renowned musician Vicky Fung, known for social enterprise Every Life is a Song (ELIAS).
In line with its avowed mission to support and showcase local talent, Cartier invited children’s choir group Red Vocal Academy, capella group Senza A Cappella and award-winning singer Andy Leung Chiu Fung to perform for the evening.
In addition to the scintillating music, party-goers were also wooed with the gigantic 12-metre high Christmas tree, decorated with an impressive 4,000 ornaments and 20,000 LED lights. Those interested in cherishing the moment forever could also take photo keepsakes with Cartier’s ornamental bellboys in front of the towering tree. Non-profit organisation Hong Chi Association also presented cookies, spreading the joy of sharing, as befits the charitable holiday.
From 14 December 2018 to 1 January 2019, fans of the of both Cartier and Christmas can visit the spectacular display, replete with 110 lavish gift boxes, to celebrate holiday cheer, and of course, take a picture keepsake.
While Cartier’s Christmas tree may certainly be classic, the lavish jewellers are also keeping up with the digital age by encouraging guests to interact with the brand online by taking their photos with the four bespoke Facebook filters of Cartier, available in the boutique, next to the Christmas tree, and online.
Cartier Christmas at Tai Kwun
Date: 14 December 2018 – 1 January 2019 Venue: Parade Ground, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central
Time: 10:00AM – 11:00PM
Christmas Spree: Affording you the greatest glee this festive season
As we draw closer to Jolly Old Saint Nick’s annual visit to our beloved city, it’s now the time to be rockin’ around the Christmas spree. Carefully selected by Gafencu’s staff are the perfect little prezzies to slip into your loved ones’ stockings, or perhaps even under the mistletoe to guarantee an extra holiday smooch.
Look 1:
From left: Confession refillable lipstick set by Hourglass; Provocateur eyeshadow palette from NARS’ Holiday 2018 Collection; Sunglasses by Alexander McQueen; Miu Cleo bag by Miu Miu; Cadogan Engine billfold wallet by Dunhill; Leather headphone case by Bottega Veneta; The Only One eau de parfum by Dolce & Gabbana; Valeria cuff by Chloé; J Box clutch with crystal stars by Jimmy Choo; Bunny Macrame charm in calfskin by Loewe; Evening slipper in patent leather by Dunhill
Look 2
From left: Cho Real Barocco mule by Roger Vivier; Varina ballerina and mini Vara Bow flap bag with crystals, both by Salvatore Ferragamo; Hot Tryst cheek palette from NARS’ Holiday 2018 Collection; Red Edition N°5 eau de parfum by Chanel; Panthère de Cartier sunglasses by Cartier; Talia sandal with crystals and feathers by Giuseppe Zanotti
Look 3
From left: Dice game in leather and wooden dice by Berluti; Duke zipped folio in metallic calfskin leather by Dunhill; Garden of Paradise parfum by Chopard; Villeret Grande Date Jour Rétrograde watch in 18K red gold case by Blancpain; Billfold wallet in multi-coloured intrecciato leather by Bottega Veneta; Leather case by Hermès
Look 4
From left: Multipouch in nappa leather, iPhone case in nappa leather, three glass orbs, all by Bottega Veneta; Zipped tablet pouch by Hermès; Foxley tasselled slippers by Jimmy Choo; Leather box with mouse motif by Loewe; Leather cardholder by Hermès
Look 5
From left: Grand Attelage gold-plated cutleryby Hermès; Barocco box clutch with crystals and stones by Roger Vivier; The Empressa Collection X’mas box gift set with Empressa eau de toilette and body cream by Penhaligon’s; Sequined Mary Jane pumps by Miu Miu; Twenty~4 Automatic watch in 18K rose gold set with diamonds by Patek Philippe; Goldomania nail colour and Goldomania Loubilaque lip lacquer from Christian Louboutin’s Goldomania holiday collection.
Photos: Neville Lee Art Direction & Styling : San Wong
Big Cat Jewellery: How the jewellery world lionised the big cats…
While persistent poaching and the erosion of their natural habitats have brought many big cats to the brink of extinction, they flourish as never before within the workshops of many of the very finest high-end jewellery houses. Indeed, for certain marques, big cat jewellery designs seem to be the most exquisite emblem for the times we live in.
Whether it’s their majestic presence or their prowling menace, big cat jewellery pieces recur throughout the world of haute joaillerie, with Cartier and Chanel proudly taking point. Indeed, it was Coco Chanel, Chanel’s legendary founder, who first devised her company’s signature lion look.
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In 1920, inconsolable after the death of her lover, she fled to Venice. Finding herself alone in this most romantic of cities, she took comfort from the winged lion sculptures that surrounded her, ultimately embracing the beast as the perfect symbol of her renewed strength and independence. Today, the company that bears her name still honours the King of the Jungle in its Sous le Signe du Lion collection.
Big cats are not solely synonymous with Chanel, however. Over at Cartier, back in the early years of the 20th century, head designer Jeanne Toussaint was nicknamed Panthère by founder Louis Cartier – a tribute to her style and presence. Taking the name to heart, all things feline played a big part in the designer’s ouvré, with her proprietary panther designs dominating the maison’s output for an entire generation.
Other brands, of course, soon followed in their paw prints, lured in as much by their leopardesque looks as by the clearly lucrative returns to be had. While they were roundly imitated, when it came to cache, however, Chanel and Cartier clearly retained the lion’s share.
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
Highlights from Poly Auction Hong Kong’s Important Watches auction
While many were still dazzled by the National Day fireworks that lit up the sky in early October, the region’s haute horology enthusiasts were gearing up for yet another Major Event – Poly Auction Hong Kong’s Autumn Sale. As ever, this saw a horde of high-earning horologists gather in eager anticipation of bidding for one or more of the hundreds of timeless timepieces – from classic chronometers to wacky one-off watches – going under the gavel during the event’s Important Watches auction.
One of the most talked-about lots was undoubtedly Patek Philippe’s Ref. 6002 Sky Moon Tourbillon. Billed as the most mechanically-complex chronogram ever created by the legendary Swiss watchmaker, its eye-catching white gold case houses a staggering 12 complications, including a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar, a moon phase, a sky chart and a minute repeater. Coming complete with a calibre 89 movement and a deep-blue dial, only five watches comprise this very limited edition.
Patek Philippe’s Ref. 6002 Sky Moon Tourbillon
Another key lure for big-spending bidders at Poly Auction Hong Kong was a collection of rare Zodiac-inspired timepieces from Vacheron Constantin. Dubbed the Métiers d’Art “Les Masques”, each of the 12 pieces in the set features hand-carved masks as a cultural nod to the more baroque traditions that once prevailed in such far-flung locations as Tibet, Java, Gabon and the Congo. While otherwise unique, four incisions on the dial of each watch show the day, date, hours and minutes, with each design also featuring an engraved verse courtesy of Michel Butor, the renowned French writer.
Cartier is another marque that has had occasion to eschew the traditional dial style, as exemplified by its Le Cirque Animalier de Cartier – Cockatiel, one of this year’s other leading lots. With almost every inch of this limited-edition ladies’ watch dazzlingly decked with diamonds and sapphires, its look is heightened still further by the bejeweled rose gold cockatiel perched enticingly on its sapphire crystal case.
Le Cirque Animalier de Cartier – Cockatiel
Never one to be outdone, Jacob & Co.’s Brilliant Flying Tourbillon is another timepiece sure to set tongues wagging at Poly Auction Hong Kong’s Important Watches showcase. A staggering 330 baguette-cut pink sapphires grace this 18-piece limited release model’s case, crown and dial, while a further 346 brilliant-cut diamonds adorn the movement’s splint, with all of them eminently evident via its transparent caseback.
Jacob & Co’s Brilliant Flying Tourbillon
Equally alluring was an offering from Richard Mille – the Ref. RM003 AO Ti-CA. Taking its inspiration from Abu Dhabi’s Formula One track, this elegant wrist adornment features the Yas Marina Circuit’s signature white and blue hues on its inner bezel and straps, while a map of the race track keeps things interesting on its caseback. In keeping with the Swiss label’s love of all things outré, its entire tonneau-shaped case has been constructed from North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT) carbon, apparently a first in the world of watchmaking.
Ref. RM003 AO Ti-CA by Richard Mille
Another lot boasting the very finest horological craftsmanship was HYT (Hydro Mechanical Horologists)’s Skull – Guns N’ Roses Edition. Despite its status as something of a newcomer, having only entered the market in 2012, HYT’s trademark hydraulic movements have already won it legions of devoted followers, including Axl Rose, the lead singer of LA rockers Guns N’ Roses, who actually designed this piece. Featuring a dominant skull dial motif ringed by a water-filled capillary, its way of telling time sees the water level passing the corresponding hour markers as the day progresses.
Skull – Guns N’ Roses Edition by HYT
Of course, it wasn’t all about recently-released avant garde timepieces, with several fine vintage watches that harked back to a far more understatedly elegant era also up for auction. Taking pride of place among these carefully-curated classics was a 1947 RolexCloisonné Enamel “Dragon”, featuring a unique cloisonné enamel dragon motif created in partnership with Stern Frères, the legendary Swiss dial maker. One of only five such watches ever created, this rare artefact has become somewhat synonymous with the very best of post-WWII horological precision engineering.
Vintage 1947 Cloisonné Enamel “Dragon” by Rolex
From bejewelled designs and outré models to historic timepieces from yesteryears, Poly Auction Hong Kong’s expansive Autumn Sale did indeed boast a fine selection of rare high-end watches, many of them guaranteed to tempt even the most discerning of collectors. It was a strategy that paid huge dividends for the auction house, with its total takings for the day said to be in the region of HK$900 million.
Text: Tenzing Thondup
Look the Part: Top five accessories for women this fall
The Moomins X Strathberry collection is the latest offering to come courtesy of Strathberry, the Scottish luxury luggage label. Produced in association with the Finnish illustrator Tove Jansson, every item in the range features one of the Moomins, the ever-popular fairy tale characters Jansson created back in 1945. The most famous of these – Moomintrol – can be found traipsing across the collection’s East/West and Mini Crescent bags, with a series of mini-Moomins emblazoned across the more compact leather purses and pouches.
Uncommon Scents
Carat Eau de Parfum, the latest fragrance from those fine folk at Cartier, is said to charmingly encapsulate the finest and freshest floral notes from a selection of nature’s most evocative nose-pleasers, including hints of violet, iris, hyacinth, ylang-ylang, daffodil, honeysuckle and tulip. Clearly designed to not only satisfy just one sense, the scent comes packaged in the kind of cut-glass finery more usually associated with the company’s high-end jewellery. A true visual and olfactory treat, it’s a must for the dressing tables of all the most modish.
Pyramid Selling
While pyramids will always first bring to mind the long-dead pharaohs of long-lost Egyptian dynasties, nuzzling into second place, in terms of three-dimensional triangle association, is surely Hermès, the Paris-headquartered high-end, high fashion brand. Not only were these pointy promontories a recurring motif in the marque’s truly memorable Fall/Winter 2018 collection, they are now the defining element of its newly-released and elegantly eye-catching Médor Rock collection of watches, with each model coming with a distinctly pyramidesque dial-mounted gem.
Amore in Store
With love always in the air among the most stylish and best-heeled, Bulgari, that most laudable of Italian luxury brands, is clearly looking to revive flickering flames of affection and to add a little added allure to any spontaneous outpourings of amore with its collection of limited-edition passion-themed handbags and heartfelt haute jewellery designs. So, if you want to declare your love with a Divas’ Dream pink gold necklace, Bulgari might well prove the middleman you’ve been looking for.
Gorgeous Grisogono
In a unique celebration of its 25-year history of eye-catching creativity, De Grisogono, the renowned Swiss luxury jeweller, has unveiled a commemorative collection of 25 stunning examples of bespoke, bejeweled innovation. Ably capturing a quarter-century of unpredictable affluence, the collection is awash with unexpected contrasts and finely-crafted counterpoints, not to mention astonishing stones, startling structures, artful aesthetics and, of course, the brand’s characteristic flair for the exceptional.
3 Iconic transformable jewellery pieces
Patented in 1938, the Passe-Partout is one of the first examples of the transformative pieces pioneered by Van Cleef & Arpels.
Luxury brands such as Cartier, Chaumet and Van Cleef & Arpels have, since the beginning of the 20th century, created transformable jewellery pieces. These intricate pieces are some of the most inventive and technically complex jewellery ever seen in the history.
Dating back to the late 19th century, the trend was originally invented for members of royalty who required jewels fit for coronations and balls. As pieces were worn on the rare occasion, innovative jewellers were hired to offer creations suitable for a number of occasions. The many changes of wardrobe required a change in jewellery and so designers produced creative pieces that could magically be taken apart and reassembled as different jewels.
As jewellery houses embrace the concept once again, transformable pieces have grown in popularity. With the help of clips, clasps and brackets, jewellery buyers are able to change bigger pieces into smaller ones, ideal for less formal occasions. They can also be transformed from one type of jewellery to another.
This gaining trend allows buyers to wear one piece in more then one way and therefore, gaining a lot more for the investment paid. In addition to these benefits, transformable jewellery also makes for great investment pieces with Christie’s claiming that when sold at auctions, they can on average sell at a 20-30% premium.
The revival of transformable jewellery also represents the demands of the women of today. Living different lives and roles each day, they require jewellery that can be adapted to suit different occasions, outfits and moods.
If you are looking for some inspiration, check out our round up of three of the most iconic transformable jewellery pieces.
Inspired by the prestigious historical legacy sustained by the great clients of Russia’s imperial court, Chaumet’s Promenades Impériales Transformable necklace can be transformed into a brooch and earrings.
The Eurythmie bracelet from the Résonances de Cartier high jewellery collection changes colour with a flick of the wrist. Set with lapis lazuli on one side and diamonds on the other, the two-faced, articulated discs flip over, allowing you to choose from two different looks.
Van Cleef & Arpels: Le Secret, The Séraphîta ring
Van Cleef & Arpels continues its tradition of creating transformable jewellery pieces with the Le Secret collection. The Séraphîtaring features an interchangeable centre so that it can be worn in four different ways. It can be worn with either a 16.46-carat Madagascan sapphire or a cluster of diamonds and mauve sapphires between its fanned sapphire sides.
Text: Hira Desai Images courtesy of: Cartier, Chaumet and Van Cleef & Arpels
Into the wild: 10 animal-inspired jewellery pieces
Jewellers have long been inspired by wild animals when creating unique designs. In more recent years, however, the trend has grown rapidly, witnessing everything from beautifully embellished swan earrings to statement-making lion necklaces.
The movement has seen luxury brands add special animal-inspired collections to their display windows, with some even adopting a signature icon. For example, Cartier, uses the panther as a symbol of strength and playfulness while the iconic serpent in Bulgari’s Serpenti collection represents transformation, vitality and seduction.
Recalling designs from the Art Deco era, animal lovers can revel in choosing a jewellery piece which matches their personality and spirituality. From the seductive serpent to the dainty butterfly, these incredibly intricate pieces will not only add a unique touch of style to your ensemble but are guaranteed conversation starters.
So if you are looking to take a break from traditional jewellery pieces, listen to your animal instinct and tap into your wild side with our roundup of animal-inspired jewellery pieces.
Résonances de Cartier high jewellery collection debuts in Hong Kong
After London, New York and Shanghai, Cartier picked Hong Kong as the next destination to launch its latest Résonances de Cartier high jewellery collection.
Three days ago, a crowd gathered in eager anticipation at The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong’s Diamond Ballroom to get a first glimpse at this stunning new line of glittering gemstone designs.
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The opening ceremony kicked off with Peggy Hui, Cartier’s Managing Director for Hong Kong and Macau, giving a rousing opening speech. Following this, local celebrities – all decked in pieces from the Résonances de Cartier collection – shared personal insights on their own styles and how to select jewellery pieces.
Last night, Cartier also held an exclusive gala dinner to introduce the new line to VIP guests at the Grand Hyatt. A-listers and industry leaders turned up in full force for the event, which also boasted a special exhibition highlighting the luxury jeweller’s 170-year legacy of tradition and fine craftsmanship.
Check out our exclusive video coverage above to get see which stunning Résonances de Cartier designs were sported by local celebrities Gigi Leung, Kathy Chow, Niki Chow and Jennifer Tse at the press conference.
