Tag: Chopard

Dynamic Ceramic: The high-tech watch material that offers scratch protection and a wearable lightness of being

Ceramic watches can project style and sophistication while possessing strength and endurance. The strong, light, scratch-resistant and hypoallergenic ceramic is usually created from powders like zirconium dioxide, zirconium oxide and yttrium that are pressed into shape and fired at extremely high temperatures. Add to this the elegance embodied in the material itself and these timepieces are among the most versatile in the market and are much sought after.

Take Blancpain’s new Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune, which for the first time offers all-ceramic options, with a bracelet made of patented black ceramic and case also hewn from this sturdy material. Two of the iterations bring contrasting colour to the dial in splendid shades of blue or green, a quite beautiful effect magnified in the light by the striking gradient and sunburst finish of the watch face. This is a sublime marriage of the strength of ceramic and the poetic reproduction of the brand’s statement moon-phase complication at six o’clock.

The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe range – introduced in 1956 by Blancpain as a diver’s watch that could be worn daily – has long been associated with cutting-edge timekeeping. All of the high-tech material is manufactured in Switzerland for environmental reasons, and it offers comfortable durability; the ceramic is an incredible five times harder than stainless steel. Meticulous craftsmanship enhances the line’s aesthetic qualities via its satin finish, as does the workmanship involved in the alignment of the bracelet links.

Omega has long appreciated the fine qualities of ceramic watches, whose lightweight and scratch-resistant properties suit arduous sporting activities while offering an elegance ideal for the chronograph. Just last year, the brand released the Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey model crafted using silicon nitride ceramic for the 45.5mm case, patented Naiad Lock screw-down caseback and bezel ring.

It represented an innovative step in the world of watchmaking, since this compound – two times lighter than zirconium ceramic – had never previously featured to such an extent on an Omega watch. An added benefit aside from its super toughness is its lightness, so it feels extremely comfortable on the wrist. Grade 5 titanium used by the aerospace industry dresses the bezel body, sand-blasted dial and folding clasp of the rubber strap, enhancing durability without loading on much additional weight.

A pioneer in black ceramic watches, Hublot has been changing the game over recent years with the introduction of a slew of brightly coloured variants. Models in vibrant red, blue and a striking yellow hue have successively been released. The latest is the Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic, like the others a coloured transparent ceramic achieved through the incorporation of pigments. To do this, zirconium oxide is heated to 1,700°C for colouration, while intense pressure renders only the colour pigments visible. Complex in-house R&D development has mastered every colour, resulting in a patented ceramic that is durable and scratch-resistant.

This latest Unico Ceramic, like the others, has a uniform hue with a mirror polish over the exterior components, including the dial counters and hands. Limited to 250 pieces and powered by the brand’s flyback chronograph movement, the 42mm-diameter timepiece is blessed with many of the signature features of other Big Bang models, such as a column wheel at six o’clock, bicompax layout, silicon escapement and skeleton architecture.

Roger Dubuis harnesses the material’s advantages by presenting two new black ceramic watches in the Excalibur family. A highly complex manufacturing process was required to ensure that the signature shapes of these timepieces were not compromised – the final grinding of hard material took 10 times longer than usual and demanded extreme craftsmanship. As a res ult, the 45mm case, bezel and crown of the Excalibur Monobalancier Black Ceramic edition are extremely resistant to marks of any kind. Housed within the case of the Excalibur Double Tourbillon Black Ceramic is the RD108 calibre and two signature tourbillons rebuilt with lighter materials.

By employing the benefits of both titanium and ceramic, Chopard grabbed collectors’ attention this spring with a new L.U.C Full Strike watch in ceramicised titanium, a material derived from oxidising the surface layers of titanium at extreme temperatures using electro-plasma technology. Aside from coming in an attractive anthracite colour, the 42.50mm ceramicised titanium case boasts superior hardness and shock-resistance properties, as well as lightness of weight. A verdigris brass dial with a finely frosted centre offers distinctive contrast.

A limited-edition release inspired by the design of stealth aircraft, the BR 03 Cyber Ceramic watch by Bell & Ross cuts a discreet avant-garde statement on the wrist. Worn with a rubber strap, the 42mm high-tech ceramic case is characterised by sharp edges, visually creating a 3-D effect and offering water resistance to 50 metres. The Swiss-made BR-CAL.383 automatic movement comes with a 48-hour power reserve. Also measuring 42mm in diameter, the recently released BR 03 Diver Black Matte Ceramic exudes a contemporary sporty appeal. A unidirectional rotating bezel in black ceramic with 60-minute scale circles the standout square case in the same material.

The bezel of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II is a gleaming 24-hour graduated monobloc of two-colour Cerachrom insert in grey and black ceramic. These special ceramic materials developed exclusively by the brand not only exhibit hues of rare intensity, they also are inert, virtually scratchproof and cannot corrode. Numerals coated with platinum applied via PVD (physical vapour deposition) serve to enhance the visibility of the moulded, recessed graduations.

Panerai embraces the modern marvels of the material in the Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic 44mm Ceramic. A Swiss-made P.9010 automatic mechanical movement with a three-day power reserve drives the timepiece, which is crafted from high-tech and exceptionally sturdy ceramic derived from a complex process in its manufacture. It has the signature features of the iconic Lumina range, including crown with protective shield for time adjustments and manual winding.

The peak of sporty endurance, Montblanc’s 1858 Geosphere CARBO₂ 0 Oxygen Limited Edition watch is distinguished by a black ceramic bi-directional rotating bezel sitting on a titanium case devoid of oxygen. Creating the CARBO₂ case involves an engineering process that ensures extreme resilience at high altitudes with no danger of fogging or oxidisation.

Enamel Polish: Intricately crafted grand feu dials take timepieces into another dimension

Enamel timepieces represent some of the most elegant and beautiful models available in the high-end watch market. The process of constructing an enamel dial is time-consuming and expensive. It involves fusing soft glass – usually made from silica – onto a metal substrate in an oven heated to about 800°C – hence the term grand feu enamel – and delicately applying layers of enamel powder by paintbrush onto a wafer-thin metal disc.

It is a temperamental material that may emerge from the oven with imperfections. Successive coats and multiple firing cycles are required for a uniform surface – the need for five or more layers of enamel is usual. Yet, the watch dials can be just a millimetre thick, if not thinner. The craft takes years of practice and often renders each dial unique.

A fine example of a dazzling enamel watch is Vacheron Constantin’s recent addition to its Métiers d’Art collection. Tribute to Explorer Naturalists embraces, in fact, four models each released in 10-piece limited editions and designed as a tribute to the scientific discoveries of the Voyage of the Beagle in the early 1830s. The dexterity of the master engravers and enamellers comes to the fore in the aesthetics of richly decorated grand feu miniature enamel dials displaying scenes from four locations along the coast of South America, where Charles Darwin encountered previously unknown plants and animals.

Encased in a 41-mm diameter 18-carat white or pink gold case and featuring a jumping hours and minutes display, each scene took a master enameller four days of meticulous craftsmanship to compose, using fine pigments on a two-level dial. For instance, the white-gold Cap-Vert model concentrates on the Cape Verde stop (January 1832), with the upper dial displaying the HMS Beagle in the centre, viewed from the stern, while the lower dial on the right enthrals with a montage of colourful flowers and luxuriant foliage.

Breguet’s Classique Dragon 7145 celebrates the Chinese zodiac with the powerful dragon exotically embellishing a distinctive dial composed of red grand feu enamel with gold applied – a perfect combination to bring out the majesty of the auspicious creature. Utilising a Calibre 502.5 self-winding movement housed in a rose-gold case, the watch is limited to eight pieces and blessed with a power reserve of 45 hours.

Chopard often calls upon the power of the enamellist to highlight the aesthetic qualities of a watch. Take its Imperiale in 18-carat ethical white gold, which has two enamel colour tones gracing the dial. Most noticeably, a deep, luscious blue-green enamel sets the tone of this feminine watch, which is encircled by white enamel-filled arabesques formed out of a raised white-gold decorative fillet. Its elegance is enhanced by a shower of padparadscha sapphires, diamonds and mother-of-pearl, as well as gilded openwork dagger-shaped hour and minute hands. A seamless alligator strap in blue-green or pink comes with a white-gold buckle set with diamonds.

Representing a first for the minimalist Louis Erard Le Régulateur model, an edition just off the blocks has a dial made with grand feu enamel. Unlike a traditional dial, an enamel dial comes without the risk of fading and the unalterable hue here is a slightly speckled ivory colour. It is the handiwork of the Donzé Cadrans workshop in Le Locle, Switzerland. The hours counter at 12 o’clock and the seconds counter at 6 o’clock come in two-colour enamel detail, fused together by the final firing. Crafted in polished stainless steel and measuring 39 mm in diameter, Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel is limited to 99 pieces, underscoring the exclusivity of enamel-dial watches.

Dedicated to métiers d’art, Geneva-based Taos has a range of one-of-a-kind watches that employ the luxuriousness of enamel. The Euphorie is dressed in a grand feu paillonné enamel dial, achieved through a multiple overlay of gold and silver paillons and enamel emanating from multiple firings. Its bold colour code comprises red, orange and black. The self-winding VOP318 calibre movement was developed exclusively by Swiss manufacturer Télôs for the independent watchmaker. The pretty Floréal model has a silver, blue and pink dial with a miniature flower painting etched out of mother-of-pearl placed on paillonné enamel. Delightful petals are formed out of cloisonné enamel.

The pink-gold Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’ timepiece was released by Jaeger-Lecoultre in homage to the ancient crafts of enamelling and engraving. Both the dial and case back are composed of grand feu enamel in such a pure black hue that they required five or six layers of enamel to ensure the depth of colour is retained. This was a lengthy process as each new layer necessitated another round of firing and cooling – meaning the process took many days, eventually culminating in a half-day of polishing. Other notable features include the dragon etched out of pink gold and set among golden clouds on the reverse side of the case and the Jaeger-LeCoultre manually wound Calibre 822 movement.

Limited to 50 pieces, Blancpain’s Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar entered its second 12-year cycle this year with a new addition utilising full-fired grand feu enamel for its dial. Marking a first for this unique grand complication series that boasts both a complex Chinese calendar and a Gregorian date and moonphase, it pairs red gold with a green enamel dial for a striking colour code. The patented under-lug correctors that facilitate finger-tip changes of the calendar are also worthy of remark. Another nifty mechanism protects from damage if settings are adjusted during automatic changes.

Cartier’s latest Crocodile Jewellery watches utilise the aesthetics and magical beauty of enamel to full effect. Graded enamel is used to recreate a sculptural creature in the guise of a crocodile which coils menacingly around the case and dial. The crocodile’s bright emerald eye, its scaly skin and slick curves crafted from enamel portray depth and realism and harmonise with the hues emanating from diamonds and gemstones adorning the timepiece. Besides a crocodile and a crocodile-cum-zebra, there are numerous other iterations of these bewitching, bejewelled animal watches that cannot fail to capture the imagination.

Seiko’s Presage SPB403J1 model in the Craftmanship Series features an enamel dial as part of its attributes, wedged in a 40.2-mm case made of stainless steel with super-hard coating. Its dual-curved sapphire crystal glass is daubed with anti-reflective coating on its inner surface. Powered by a 6R55 automatic manually wound movement with a power reserve of 72 hours, it is water resistant to a depth of 100 metres and has a see-through case back.

Geneva Invention: Showcasing the new crop of imaginative timepieces to watch and wonder

Watches and Wonders is the year’s standout event in the world of horology, a time when many watchmakers release new offerings to an eager public fascinated by the elegance, beauty and mechanical sophistication on display. The Geneva gathering also serves to reinforce the signature statements of the top manufactures.

Take Cartier, which pulled out all the stops to supplement existing collections with intriguing tweaks and exciting alternatives. A highlight was the exotic appeal of a different creature joining its menagerie of Animal Jewellery watches. The new timepiece is a breathtaking convergence of the aesthetic beauty of a zebra and a crocodile. This mythical multi-striped creature – a figment of the imagination – wraps itself around a lozenge-shaped dial of diamond pavé or black lacquer. The coiled design of the case, crafted from white, yellow or rose gold, is variously studded with green tsavorite garnets, rubies or black spinel, and each stripe is meticulously lacquered by hand.

The eighth iteration of the prestigious Cartier Privé line is a reworking of the Tortue watch, first introduced in 1912. Three hour-and-minute versions have a slimmer profile and are noticeably lighter than the original model while retaining significant design details including apple-shaped hands and a rail track following the curves of the iconic tortoise-shaped case. Collectors will surely crave the Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, available in platinum with a silvered opaline dial or yellow gold with a grained gold-finish dial. The monopusher chronograph graced the Tortue in 1928 and again in 1998, with the new version retaining many of the features of the reinterpreted model, such as the hollowed-out central seconds hand and triangle motifs at the corners of the dial, though subtle changes enhance the harmony of a cabochon-ruby crown set in precious metal. The movement is just 4.3 mm thick, and rhodium-plated Roman numerals, and the azure effect of the two chronograph counters distinguishes the dial.

New and innovative Santos timepieces were also introduced, in particular a Dual-Time model and the Santos-Dumont Rewind that can tell the time backwards via an inverted set of Roman numeral indices appearing counter-clockwise around the dial.

Rolex presented two new 18-carat-gold versions of its Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller watch for sophisticated jetsetters, both fitted with the supple five-piece-link Jubilee bracelet in precious metal for the first time. One model has an Everose-gold band distinguished by a slate dial with a sunray finish, while the yellow-gold bracelet of the other contrasts with an intense white satin-finish dial. Both have hands featuring highly legible Chromalight, which emits long-lasting luminescence and a blue glow. The brand has also made subtle updates to its GMT-Master II model.

Following three years of development, Van Cleef & Arpels debuted new Lady Arpels Jour Nuit (38 mm) and Lady Jour Nuit (33 mm) models at Watches and Wonders. In a simply beguiling effect worthy of the Poetic Complications collection to which these timepieces belong, their dials display a diamond-paved moon in continuous pursuit of the sun across a sky studded with stars. They are cased in white gold and diamonds, offer a self-interchangeable alligator-leather strap, and are powered by a self-winding mechanical movement that rotates a disk once every 24 hours. Aventurine glass, mother-of-pearl, white gold, yellow gold and diamonds dress the dial, with the larger watch encrusting its sun with yellow sapphires.

In another enchanting creation, two plique-à-jour enamel butterflies flutter among swaying flowers caught by a summer breeze on the face of the Lady Arpels Brise d’Été watch. The extraordinary dial of the Lady Arpels Nuit Enchantée watch depicts flowers used as a bed by a fairy after they are picked in the day (Jour Enchanté) version.

Patek Philippe unveiled a total of 11 new iterations, most notably a full production model of the innovative watch that was released as a limited edition last year with a world-first feature – a date display synchronised with local time. Utilising the patented differential system of its self-winding calibre 240 HU C movement, the World Time Ref 5330G-001 has a dial of blue-grey opaline with the date shown on its periphery.

When Ulysse Nardin first released the Freak, it was considered revolutionary for eschewing the traditional watch dial, hands and crown in favour of an orbital flying one-hour carousel and a balance wheel, hairspring and escapement made of silicon. For the Freak S Nomad, the hour disc that sits behind the ‘spaceship’ movement features a sand-dune-like diamond guilloché pattern with CVD (chemical vapour disposition) coating.

Of particular note among a slew of watches introduced by Grand Seiko during Watches and Wonders is the Sport Collection Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC275. Released in homage to the 9R Spring Drive movement and limited to 700 pieces, its startling feature is a radiant colour-changing dial. Taking inspiration from the glowing colours emanating from the peaks of Japan’s Hotaka mountain range half an hour before and after sunrise, the watch face seems to strike a different hue depending on the viewing angle – a feat achieved by the brand’s patented ‘Optical Multilayer Coating’ system.

Another watch whose dial nods to nature’s beauty is Chopard’s Alpine Eagle XL Chrono, fully crafted from ethical 18-carat rose gold. The Bernina Grey colour of the brass dial, achieved by galvanic treatment, is inspired by the gorgeous hues and natural splendours of the Alpine rocks, while its sunburst stamping reminds of the iris of the noble bird of prey. The chronometer-certified movement with flyback function boasts three separate patents.

Roger Dubuis premiered four watches at Watches and Wonders including the Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon, which comes in a blaze of powerful colours befitting its name. The brand’s signature flying tourbillons are contained within a 45 mm pink-gold case with a sapphire crystal caseback, while the pink gold bezel is set with 72 stones comprising red garnets, orange spessartites and yellow sapphires. A further nine glistening stones in hues inspired by the sunrise embellish the dial of this watch, which is limited to just eight pieces.

Panerai also unloaded numerous new timepieces during the goings-on at Geneva. The 44 mm Submersible Quaranta Quattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech, blessed with a blue sun-brushed or white matte-grained dial, is forged from the innovative Ti-Ceramitech material created at the watchmaker’s Neuchâtel lab. This titanium ceramisation process delivers a supremely tough and hardy timepiece that is nonetheless 44% lighter than steel.

Red Ringer: Embracing Luck and Fortune – The resplendence of red jewelleries in Chinese New Year celebrations

As the vibrant hues of red fill the air, and the streets come alive with the sound of firecrackers, it can only mean one thing — the Chinese New Year is upon us. This auspicious occasion, steeped in rich traditions and symbolism, holds special significance for millions around the world. Among the many customs associated with this joyous festival is the belief in the power of red jewellery to bring luck and fortune. In Chinese culture, the colour red holds profound symbolism. It is believed to embody energy, happiness, and good fortune. Red is associated with the Chinese zodiac sign of the Dragon, which is highly revered and considered a symbol of power and prosperity. This vibrant colour is thought to ward off evil spirits and attract positive energy, making it an integral part of the festive atmosphere.

The deep red hues of rubies, garnets, and red agates are particularly favored, as they represent vitality and abundance. These gemstones amplify the positive energies of the wearer and provide a stunning accessory to complement traditional Chinese attire.

Buccellati ring

Buccellati bracelet

Buccellati necklace

Chopard bangle

Chopard earrings

Chopard ring

Chopard necklace

Chopard ring

Chopard ring

Chopard earrings

Chopard earrings

Chopard earrings

Chopard necklace

Chopard necklace

Light Fantastic: Dials can defy the dark with a touch of super-luminescent razzle-dazzle

Watches that glow in the dark offer the wearer reassurance they will be able to read the time even under most trying of circumstances. Many of the prestigious brands paint the hands and dial of their timepieces with a special pigment that gleams by absorbing and then reemitting light. Unfortunately, the first so-called lume watches derived their luminescence from radium, a radioactive material, and were discontinued, but the luminous phosphorescent glowing solution now used to coat key parts of the watch face is considered completely safe.

Rolex has long enjoyed a reputation for producing watches with that extra special glow. Indeed, some of their early pocket watches made for the military were painted with luminous material. Today’s collections use Super-LumiNova, which first came to light in 1933, or the brand’s proprietary Chromalight technology, which debuted in 2008, for luminescence.

The Chromalight display of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer 40, for instance, is designed to offer excellent legibility in all circumstances. The blue glow emitted in dark conditions lasts for about eight hours, while in daylight a distinctive bright white hue emanates from the watch. The new Explorer, a collection made famous by Himalayan expeditions, is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel.

Luminescence is a critical attribute for divers’ watches in murky underwater conditions. The Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge sports an array of features to combat such an environment, including patented case architecture with a sealed Triplock crown set to withstand extreme pressure and Chromalight display with superb luminescence to enhance underwater legibility.

The need for outstanding visibility has also played an important role in the design of Bell & Ross watches. The Lum collection, launched in 2017, is inspired by aeronautical instrumentation where readability and luminosity are key. Dials, numerals, indices and hands are highly legible day and night due to their Super-LumiNova coating.

In recent years, models have emitted a range of colours, from the intense green glow of the BR 03-92 Grey Lum to others exhibiting a pale yellow luminescence. The most recent iteration, the BR-X5 Green Lum, is crafted from titanium and an innovative photo-luminescent composite material, LM3D. So, unlike in previous iterations, it is the 41mm case that glows fully in the dark, serving to magnify the dial – replete with luminous hour and minute markers, hands, date and power-reserve indicators – and give the watch a surreal look.

Launched in 2010, the youthful, avant-garde brand of Ressence takes a minimalistic approach to watch design. Its latest release, the Type 1° M, features engraved indications filled with grade A Super-LumiNova on a convex German silver dial. The glow effect is enhanced by a greater range of colour codes than previously seen (M stands for Multicolour), with green, blue, yellow and red appearing on the hour, minute, second and weekday discs respectively in a beautiful contrast with the light grey dial. Its unique Ressence Orbital Convex System module is driven by the minute axle of a customised 2892 base calibre. Notably, there is no crown – time-setting and winding are accomplished via a retractable lever on the caseback.

Breitling has recently updated its Avenger range, and the new B01 Chronograph 44 Night Mission, powered by the Breitling calibre 01, has Super-LumiNova-coated indices, numerals and hands on a carbon fibre dial of all-black, or yellow with chronograph counters in black. The numerals are particularly legible. A ceramic bezel and case, with a titanium caseback, crown and pushers, round off a super-strong design.

Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black ETNZ Edition pays tribute to the America’s Cup and defending champions Emirates Team New Zealand. The visually striking timepiece combines the turquoise hue of the team logo with the deepest black, while the distinctive green glow emitted in the dark by the white Super-LumiNova adds to the feast of colours. Its power comes from Omega’s Master Chronometer Calibre 9900.

The Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep in Summer Blue, meanwhile, joins a line in homage to a world-record dive of 2019. When UV light is directed at the lacquered dial, the words “Omega was here” are revealed.

One of the hallmarks of a Roger Dubuis timepiece is its superb luminescence, exemplified by the kaleidoscope of colours emanating from the synthetically grown spinels – graded from red to blue, and coated with Super-LumiNova – on the dial of the eye-catching Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone Monobalancier. This dazzling combination of colour and light bounces off the 42mm Eon gold case and bezel set with curved synthetic sapphires.

Capturing the free-spirited movement of the sea and the creatures who dwell within it, Seiko has added a “Whale” model to its Prospex Thong Sia Exclusive Limited Edition collection. The automatic diver’s watch features a bright white dial and bracelet and contrasting black hands and case. The bezel, hands and indices are coated with LumiBrite for practical and aesthetic reasons.

A skeletonised chronograph has joined the TAG Heuer Monaco range. It comes in a choice of three different colours powered by the Heuer 02 movement with an 80-hour power reserve. The distinctive skeleton dial, a first for the line, is housed in a tough grade 2 titanium case. In another innovation for the model, the date window (along with the indices and hands of the watch) are embossed with Super- LumiNova, ensuring brilliant legibility even in low light.

Chopard’s new ‘Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’ features oversized 6 and 12 o’clock Arabic numerals which are enhanced with black SuperLuminova© – thereby meeting motorsports’ inherent legibility requirements.

Diamond Precision: Time is more precious when prestigious watchmakers turn to stones

For extra-special elegance and sparkle, watches embellished with diamonds raise their appeal that notch higher. Their allure is such that these fine mechanical works of art represent some of the most desired – and visually stimulating – timepieces available to collectors.

The heart of watchmaking, Switzerland, is replete with Haute Horlogerie manufacturers including Audemars Piguet, which recently unveiled two limited-edition 39 Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin models entirely set with gems. The 18-carat white-gold version has an 8.1-mm-thick case set with 138 brilliant-cut diamonds – about 2.6 carats – and glare-proofed sapphire crystal front and back. Adding to its lustre, the bracelet features 968 brilliant-cut diamonds and the dial is set with 422 brilliant-cut diamonds (for a grand total of 1,528 brilliant-cut diamonds and 8.3 carats) along with white-gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.

The 18-carat yellow-gold model is similarly carpeted with gems across the case, bezel, dial and bracelet – though these are yellow sapphires forming 10.41 carats.

Cartier delighted with a number of exquisite high- jewellery watches at Watches and Wonders 2023. The iconic Cartier Jewelled Tank watch remains true to its design code with its distinctive rectangular dial and parallel brancards. Whilst retaining that undeniable Tank identity, the bejewelled models are elevated by a flexible bracelet of mobile cylinders in onyx, chrysoprase or coral with articulated links to offer greater comfort, and a face flanked on all sides by diamonds of varying sizes. These new Tank watches pay homage to the colour palette of Jeanne Toussant with their coloured stones – coral, chrysoprase, amethysts and diamonds – and interplay of colour contrasts. The amethysts, coral, and chrysoprases, rose-gold dial of the Jewelled Tank watch, large model, quartz movement is set with 272 brilliant-cut diamonds and features polished rose steel sword-shaped hands.

For the new Baignoire Allongée, Cartier has built on the original design by creating a case composed of two parts combined by means of a micro-welding tool to incorporate two colour codes – yellow gold and white gold. It features a diamond-lit case that contrasts with a dial divided into different sections of varying sizes; the white and yellow gold areas are distinguished by a hand-carved sunray motif. The case is set with 212 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.81 carats.

The Baignoire continues to evolve and new Jewelled Baignoire editions showcase lines of diamonds that ring a snow-set dial and then extend the length of the bracelet to enhance the timepiece’s slim curves.

Presenting a discreet diamond face, Patek Philippe’s Ref: 4997/200R Calatrava in rose gold sets 76 internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds around the bezel. An ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 240 movement with a 22-carat gold mini-rotor powers the timepiece, which is housed in a 35 mm- diameter rose-gold case with a sapphire crystal caseback. Of note is its colour scheme: an eye- catching purple lacquered dial with an embossed pattern and rose-gold dauphine hands harmonises perfectly with a purple calfskin strap with a satinated finish and rose-gold prong buckle.

Richard Mille’s iconic RM 07-01 collection of automatic watches aimed at women is joined by new Intergalactic models combining the brand’s signature Carbon TPT with diamonds. The possibly unique combination of Carbon TPT – ultra-lightweight but strong with a warm velvety texture – and diamonds undoubtedly gives these models extra sparkle and highlights the fine attributes of each. Such is the strength of this high-performance material that settings for the stones as well as some snazzy red- gold prongs are machined with a diamond-bit milling tool. Diamonds are particularly prominent on the RM 07-01 Starry Night, worn with a Carbon TPT bracelet, and Bright Night models.

The new Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 by Rolex welcomes dials made of decorative stone in shimmering tones that evoke the Mediterranean coast. Green aventurine, carnelian and turquoise are paired with watches in 18-carat Everose, yellow and white gold respectively. Each of these three models features a diamond-set dial, diamond-set bezel and President bracelet with a concealed folding clasp. This bracelet, composed of carefully selected 18-carat gold, is a brand signature dating back to the launch of the line in 1956. A total of 52 brilliant- cut diamonds are affixed to the bezel in a precisely aligned, hand-carved setting.

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023, Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony Self-Winding Jewellery novelty glitters with diamonds, boasting a total encrustation of 769 round-cut stones, of which 420 embellish the dial. This sleek 18-carat white-gold watch comes with a sapphire crystal caseback and a shiny dark-blue alligator leather strap.

Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection 2023 embraces a plethora of watches exotically and colourfully adorned with diamonds. These Haute Joaillerie masterpieces include Ref. 104429-1001, which shimmers with pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, and the dazzling Ref. 104672-1001 with 28.3 carats of white diamonds and 21.65 carats of emeralds. Ref. 134154-5001’s pretty satin strap is distinguished by a diamond-set buckle.

Chaumet has numerous models adorned with diamonds including the Souveraine and Maharani secret watches worn with black alligator-leather straps. The former dazzles with an 18-carat white gold case and hinges set with 111 brilliant-cut diamonds, and a secret cover resplendent in 155 brilliant-cut, pear-shaped and rose-cut diamonds.

Marble Marquetry by Harry Winston, on the other hand, is a spectacular bracelet watch showcasing 56 blue sapphires set among a blaze of white light comprising a grand total of 208 brilliant- cut, baguette-cut and pear-cut diamonds.

The Wild Side: Inventive and artistic, jewellers across the globe are taking the animalistic approach

From ancient gold jewellery to contemporary gems, we have been attempting to capture the beauty of the natural world in our art and ornaments for thousands of years. Animals have served as a source of inspiration for artists, who have discovered materials that may hold the key to their creation’s mystery in stunning stones and rare metals. Our understanding of our own natures is shaped by these projections, which allude to our ancestry and the transition from nature to culture.

The urge to interpret animals as symbols is related to our understanding of what it means to be human and this comprehension links historical works of art and societies. Animal representations served as allegories, artistic inspirations, or emblems of creation, supporting widely-held myths or beliefs. Through the use of wild animals as intermediates, these animal images help us to comprehend the interactions between humans and nature, as demonstrated by top jewellery houses like Cartier, Buccellati and Chopard.

Chopard bracelet

Boucheron ring

Tiffany & Co. earring

Boucheron bracelet

Buccellati brooch

Cartier necklace

Cartier ring

Tiffany & Co. bracelet

Tiffany & Co. earring

Cartier necklace

Boucheron ring

Buccellati brooch

Watch and Wonder: The best of Geneva’s timely fest of fantastic new creations

This year’s Watches and Wonders in Geneva displayed another plethora of dazzlingly sophisticated and stylish timepieces. A very grand total of 48 brands welcomed the biggest-ever turnout to the most prestigious watchmaking event of the year. The record attendance for the 2023 edition perused a range of novelties that could not fail to wow even the most seasoned of watch collectors.

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar PAM01432

Panerai unveiled six new Radiomir editions at Watches and Wonders 2023, paying tribute to the prototype presented in 1935. Bearing the brand’s debut annual calendar complication, two Radiomir Annual Calendar watches, PAM01432 and PAM01363, were the highlights. The dial is clearly designed and displays all the requisite information in a neat row at 3 o’clock: day and date visible through two apertures, and the current month on an external moving disc, indicated by a fixed arrow. With each monthly cycle, a cam within the P.9010/ AC automatic movement allows the rotating disc and the information display to change instantaneously. PAM01432’s splendid burgundy sun-brushed dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers offers smart contrast to its platinum case.

Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

The new Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF from Chopard combines precision, style and sportiness. It is the second high-frequency model – an innovation that delivers enhanced accuracy and stability – within the Alpine Eagle collection and is initially difficult to discern from an Alpine Eagle 41 in Lucent Steel. While Alpine Eagle watches are traditionally made of the brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel, ethical gold, or a combination of the two, the new Cadence model is all-titanium with a snazzy splash of orange on its black dial. Whereas Lucent Steel is shiny, hard and particularly comfortable to touch, titanium is distinguished by its even lighter weight, darker colour and more robust nature.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex aimed to preserve continuity with the past while demonstrating the powers of invention in its latest creations unveiled at the show. Take the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, which offers even greater visual harmony and a more modern demeanour. The dial graphics have a new balance. Lines of light are reflected from the lugs and the sides of its redesigned middle case. On versions with a Cerachrom bezel, this is edged with the same metal as the middle case. Most striking, though, is the addition of a sapphire caseback, allowing a clear view of the new manufacture 4131 calibre.

Zenith Pilot Automatic

Taking Zenith’s fascination with the world of aviation to a higher plane at Watches and Wonders 2023 is the Pilot Automatic enhanced by an entirely new 40mm case design. Crafted in either stainless steel or black ceramic, it features a distinct flat-top round bezel fixed on top of the rounded case. In the steel version, the surfaces are vertically satin-brushed with polished chamfers; the black ceramic model is microblasted for a stealthy matte finish. The oversized crown, a defining feature of Pilot watches, takes on a more modern, angular form while remaining easy to operate – even with gloves on.

Cartier Tank Normale

Cartier presented delicate and detailed refinements to models in its iconic watch collections. For instance, for its seventh Cartier Privé incarnation, the Maison has added a skeleton movement to the Tank Normale, accompanied by a quirky 24-hour complication marked by a sun and crescent moon that is also skeletonised. While the minute hand turns around the dial in one hour, the hour hand goes around in 24 hours instead of 12.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5224R-001 Calatrava Travel Time

Patek Philippe also regaled attendees with a substantial number of debutants to an already vast range of collections. In total, it showed 17 new iterations, including Ref. 5224R-001 Calatrava Travel Time, an addition to its travel watches, which is equipped with dual time-zone function and distinguished by its 24-hour display. The Aquanaut Luce line welcomes a new useful and easy-to-use complication: the patented Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R-001. Adorned in blue-grey from dial to matching strap, this elegant rose gold timepiece enriches the brand’s range of complicated watches for women by presenting a non-gem-set model.

Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph

The Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph from Roger Dubuis was another Watches and Wonders 2023 standout. The eye-catching model boasts a 47mm case made of hyper-tech MCF (Mineral Composite Fibre) – a material 2.5 times lighter than ceramic and 13% lighter than carbon. A Turborotor Cylindrical Oscillating Weight also features, sitting at 12 o’clock and positioned vertically, so that the entire force of gravity pushes down on the design to keep the watch running efficiently.

Green Lit: Green stone-infused pieces of jewellery take over this month

Emerald Jewellery - Cartier Necklace

Emerald Jewellery - Cartier Necklace
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The May birthstone, which is connected to the heart chakra, has long been thought to improve vision, bring clarity, offer protection and represent fortune. Emeralds have also been worn by royalty including Cleopatra and the final Inca ruler. They are also a red-carpet favourite of the A-list. They are, after all, a variety of the mineral beryl and get their beautiful green colour from trace amounts of chromium and vanadium, so they are really precious and one of a kind, containing tiny seams and fractures known as “Jardins”, or gardens, which makes them less robust than diamonds, and therefore an unusual choice for engagement rings. However today, emeralds have been a popular option for wedding proposals worldwide. And even for the ones not planning to get on one knee, these green gems sit perfectly in accessorising any outfit and add just the right amount of bling. From necklaces and earrings to rings and bracelets, it’s always a yes for anything emerald. Embark on a voyage to the Emerald City with pieces from Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Chopard.

Summer’s Glimmer: Bold, bright and beautiful jewellery for making a statement for the season

As the days get longer and warmer, it’s time to freshen up your look with some stunning spring and summer jewellery. Whether you’re looking for something fun and playful or elegant and sophisticated, there’s a piece of jewellery out there that’s perfect for you.

The season calls for statement earrings. Big, bold and colourful, these earrings are perfect for adding a touch of drama to your outfit. Think oversized hoops, tassels and geometric shapes in bright, summery hues. Why not try making waves by layering delicate necklaces of different lengths which can create a beautiful and feminine effect? You can mix and match different styles and textures to create a unique and personal look.

For those who prefer something more understated, delicate bracelets and rings are always in style. Look for dainty chains, bold designs and sparkling gemstones to add a touch of elegance to your outfit.

(Text: Peter Chan)