Golden Hour: It’s time to say yes to responsibly sourced gold
“How many carats?” While slightly impertinent, it’s a question that most jewellery aficionados could answer easily enough. Should they, however, be challenged with: “Where does it come from?”, they might be harder pressed to provide a definitive answer.
Indeed, it was a query that even Caroline Scheufele, the Co-President of Chopard, clearly struggled with. When asked that very question at the Academy Awards several years back, her inability to respond prompted her to review the company’s sourcing protocols. Recalling the revelation sparked by the impromptu enquiry, she said: “I really had no idea. As with most jewellers, we tended to buy our gold in bulk and never thought to ask where it actually came from. Once you’ve been made aware of the related issues, however, it’s something you just can’t turn your back on.”
Indeed, the issues in question are murky, tangled and, all too often, tainted with the blood of innocents. The gold industry is huge, with its mining operations extending across 60 countries and providing employment to over 15 million people. Unfortunately, it’s also known for being the root cause of a vast number of environmental and humanitarian problems, with the workers toiling in the gold mines – many of them underage – being subject to long hours, low pay and dangerous conditions.
In recent years, though, the more conscious customers and jewellers have become only too aware of the problems wrought by the gold industry. This has led many of the most well-known names in the sector – including Chopard, Gucci and Boucheron – to commit to using only eco-friendly or recycled or responsibly sourced gold. This has seen the emergence of several virtuous certification systems of which two – Fairmined Gold and Fairtrade Gold – are well on the way to being recognised as global standards for responsibly sourced gold. Some brands, like Bulgari, meanwhile, also abide by the codes of the Responsible Jewellery Council.
The high profile accorded to such initiatives is, however, unfortunately at odds with their actual success. Indeed, of the 3,300 tonnes of total gold mined every year, only a paltry few 100kg are actually bona fide responsibly sourced.
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
White gold jewellery: A white hue that may be right for you
Humanity’s love affair with gold predates the dawn of civilisation and stretches back to at least 4000 BC. Historically, it’s always been the pursuit of the shiny yellow incarnation of this most precious of metals that has set brother against brother, toppled dynasties and seen countless thousands perish in search of a promising seam.
In times more contemporary, however, it seems the metal’s natural lustre may have lost something of its allure. Increasingly, the world’s leading jewellery houses are opting for artfully-rendered alloys, an indulgence that has seen pink and, particularly, white gold become the mainstays of many marques’ latest collections.
The ever-wider use of white gold is down to two factors. Firstly, as an alloy made from fusing the relatively softer gold with palladium, a firmer metal, it is stronger than its constituent parts, yet very malleable. It is then coated with rhodium, which enhances both its shine and its strength, making it perfect for fashioning intricately-designed trinkets.
Secondly, for the uninitiated, white gold is visibly indistinguishable from platinum, a far rarer metal. This gives white gold jewellery the look and feel of items valued well above its actual price tag.
Despite such advantages, there is something of a downside. Over time – and as the rhodium coating begins to wear thin – yellow flecks begin to show through, visually degrading the appeal of any such jewellery pieces. Thankfully, however, a suitably skilled jeweller can reapply a layer of rhodium on them. This not only restores their lustre but also ensures they can be passed down from generation to generation as wholly unblemished heirlooms.
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
Auto Winders: Check out these latest high-octane car-watch collaborations
Both cars and watches have long had a special place in the hearts of refined gentlemen of means, and with good reason. The two owe their origins to pressing needs for convenience and precision, with each now treasured as epitomising a true fusion of precision engineering and enduring elegance. Given their shared heritage and matching aspirational feel, car-watch partnerships were all but inevitable. Indeed, many such strategic car-watch brand alliances have proved fruitful and long-lived, while yielding some truly stunning designs…
In celebration of its three-decade collaboration with the Mille Miglia race – a 1,600km-long classic car rally held in Italy each year – Chopard has launched the Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition. Here, the requisite tachymetre bezel and chronograph pushers set the rallying tone, while its generous 44mm fascia allows for easy legibility. The self-winding movement, meanwhile, provides ultra-precise time measurements, which are said to be accurate to an eighth of a second. Limited to just 1,000 pieces, perforated leather straps – reminiscent of the texture of driving gloves – complete a truly vintage look.
An equally grand race-inspired timepiece comes courtesy of Bremont, with its historic partnership with Jaguar, a fellow British brand, having culminated in the launch of the limited-edition Jaguar D-type. A knowing homage to Jaguar’s hugely successful D-type – the car that won the gruelling Le Mans 24 Hours race from 1955 to 1957 – the 300bHp of its original engine is given a knowing nod by the fact that just 300 pieces are to be produced. Set on blue racing calf-leather straps, the 43mm blue-dialled bi-compax timepiece features a tachymetre scale, an effective contrast with its brushed nickel sub-dials. Sporty yet sophisticated, its racing pedigree is more than apparent at even the most cursory of glances.
Taking a similarly heritage-centric approach is Breitling’s Bentley-channelling Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition. Designed to celebrate the motoring marque’s 100th anniversary, the left side of the case bears the same Bentley engraving that graced the dashboard of the iconic 1929 Bentley Blower. With both the stainless steel and rose gold models featuring a white printed tachymetre scale on a unique brown elm burl dial, its classic appeal is undoubtable.
A more contemporary approach, meanwhile, comes in the memorable form of the Classic Fusion Ferrari GT, the latest timepiece on offer from Hublot and Ferrari, the self-styled supercar marque. In place of the former’s traditionally angular designs, this flyback chronograph is the very epitome of aerodynamic curvature. Available in titanium, King Gold or 3D Carbon, the watch’s beautifully open-worked fascia proudly displays Ferrari’s famed prancing horse at 12 o’clock, while also highlighting its recessed Calibre UNICO HUB1280 movement. Hybrid black rubber-Schedoni leather straps and a convex case design round out its automotive appeal.
In an unusual move, TAG Heuer and Aston Martin have taken the symbiotic nature of car-watch partnerships to a whole new level, with the former’s Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Aston Martin DBS Superleggera 2019 timepiece and the latter’s DBS Superleggera TAG Heuer Edition on offer as one all-inclusive car-watch package. More specifically, the purchase of any of the new sportscars – available in a limited edition of just 50 – will see the lucky owner also walk away with TAG’s latest chronogram. Obviously inspired by the car it namechecks, the marque’s all-new design includes several unambiguously DBS accents, notably its grille-motif hexagonal cut-out fascia and embossed leather straps, while a hint of red detailing adorns its otherwise all-black finish.
Revving proceedings up several gears, avant-garde watchmaker Roger Dubuis has teamed with Lamborghini and tyre brand Pirelli to create its undeniably eclectic Excalibur One-off. Blending the expertise of the three partners in their individual areas of excellence – haute horology, adrenaline-driven performance and precision engineering – this truly superlative chronogram perfectly balances aggressive athleticism with aesthetic appeal. Its delightfully open-worked fascia, meanwhile, reveals its purpose-built RD 106SQ movement, as well as its double flying tourbillon and a jumping hours display at 12 o’clock – all structured to resemble the engine of the Lamborghini SC18 Alston supercar that provided the original inspiration.
The most recent members of the car-watch collaborators club – renowned Swiss haute horology house Jacob & Co. and legendary hypercar company Bugatti – though, may just prove to be the most outré. The first fruit of this partnership – the Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition – is nothing short of overwhelming, in terms of both size and complexity. It comes with a decimal repeater as standard, as well as a racing-themed “fuel” power reserve indicator and stunningly intricate dual triple-axis sequential high-speed tourbillons. With each individual watch carrying a price tag of US$500,000, the exclusivity of this 39-piece release is heightened yet more by the fact that it is only purchasable by Bugatti owners.
Text: Tenzing Thondup
Drop Earrings: What celebrities are wearing on red carpets?
If red carpet trends are anything to go by, there’s one look that celebrities the world over seem to be digging these days – haute couture gowns, swept-up hair and drop earrings. Be it at Cannes or charity galas or other high-society events, it’s easy to understand why this look is so popular with A-listers.
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At the centre of this look is of course an eye-catching, glittering, twinkling pair of earrings that spells glam all the way. Choose from the high jewellery collections from the acclaimed purveyors of luxury jewellery, from Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection to Chaumet’s Josephine Aigrette earrings, but do remember it’s a fine line between chic and crass, so here’s out top five picks to help you make the right choice every time.
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Our top picks from Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection 2019
Swiss luxury brand Chopard has been historically intertwined with the prestigious Cannes International Film Festival ever since Chopard’s co-president Caroline Scheufele designed the festival’s highest prize Palme d’Or in 1997.
Since 1998, Chopard has been the official partner at the Cannes International Film Festival, and every year the haute joaillerie brand’s highly-coveted Red Carpet Collection graces the red carpet of this most high-profile event of the film fraternity.
This year, Caroline Scheufele has chosen the most pure emotion of ‘love’ as her inspiration for the 2019 Red Carpet Collection. As the theme suggests, this year the Red carpet Collection rejoices in all the diverse forms of love. From the people around us to the nature that surrounds us, from our history and culture to research and innovation, love nourishes all, and hence Chopard has paid its respect to this greatest of emotions.
To mark the opening ceremony of the Cannes Festival, Caroline Scheufele has unveiled 72 necklaces, bracelets, rings, brooches and jewellery watches that she has conceptualised for the legendary ‘Montée des Marches’ red carpet ritual: an anthem to vibrant colours and daring shapes, as well as a celebration of precious stones and rich poetic references – all culminating in the universal message of love. Check out our top picks here.
Star Power: Cosmic jewellery in contemporary culture
Despite personkind having first set foot on the moon some 50 years ago, intermittently successful unmanned missions to Mars and, most recently, candid snaps of a black hole at play, outer space remains very much the Great Unknown, a region that fascinates and terrifies mere earthbound mortals in almost equal measure. The Final Frontier, as it was memorably billed by one TV sci-fi franchise, continues to inspire in countless mediums, with its depths explored almost as thoroughly by the human imagination as by any high-tech NASA probe.
With the night sky seemingly a celestial diamond array, it’s no surprise that haute joaillerie brands have so oft looked to the heavens for inspiration, with the sun, the moon and the stars frequently motifed in cosmic jewellery designs by many of the leading marques. This is evident in such high-end offerings as Cartier’s Les Galaxies de Cartier collection or Piaget’s Sunlight Escape collection.
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While some jewellery designers have turned to otherworldly materials to render their works in a truly stellar style – most notably milky quartz, moonstones or rock crystals – others have opted for iconic astral avatars. Of the latter, this has seen Chopard’s Happy Diamonds pendant necklace give the sun star billing, while Buccellati’s black-gold Macri cuff bracelet has more than a little of the night about it.
Of course, given this is the world of haute joaillerie, regardless of any piece’s lunar leanings or solar stylings, the price of any cosmic jewellery, too, is almost guaranteed to be somewhat astronomical.
Perpetual Bliss: A round-up of the latest perpetual calendar watches
It’s no secret that, pretty much since it was invented by Thomas Mudge, an intrepid English watchmaker, back in 1762, the perpetual calendar has taken pride of place on the fascia of countless treasured timepieces from many of the world’s most well-loved haute horology houses. For the uninitiated, these are mechanisms capable of not only keeping track of the date, day and month, but also of every passing year – including leap years. In the case of most currently available models, their movements can remain untweaked until 2100 at the very least.
Today, despite the time and effort that go into creating these notoriously complex complications, there is no shortage of innovative new iterations. A particularly admirable example comes courtesy of Chopard in the form of its L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl. A homage to the Tian Long dragons of classical Chinese mythology, two such beasts majestically adorn the watch’s beautifully hand-engraved rose gold case – a process said to require some 200 hours of work by one of the brand’s finest artisans. The dial proper then boasts a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, while the perpetual calendar indicators can be found at 3 and 9 o’clock. Fitted with a hand-wound Calibre L.U.C 02.15-L movement as standard, this one-of-a-kind timepiece is a collectors’ item in waiting.
Eschewing the outré in favour of the more minimalist, Montblanc’sHeritage Perpetual Calendar opts for a truly timeless white-rose gold combination. A 100-piece limited-model, it boasts a moon phase movement and a dual-time function, as well as its duly-forefronted perpetual complication. One particularly adept addition is a nifty new safety feature that prevents users from adjusting the chronogram between the hours of 9pm and 3am – a move that ensures its precision mechanism remains tamper-free and its useful life is extended and optimised.
Delightfully clean counters are also on offer from A Lange & Söhne and have been ably enshrined in its blue-and-white Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “25th Anniversary”. Beneath its dazzling dial – elegantly embellished with an off-key, off-centre hour-and-minute subdial, a moon phase display and day-date-month indicators – beats the house’s legendary Calibre L082.1, a self-winding movement that’s so complex it comprises 624 individual parts. With a hidden subdial tourbillon only adding to its sophistication, it is daringly debonair yet unobtrusively opulent.
Again sporting an eminently elegant blue-and-white gold livery is the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Enamel, one of the latest offerings from the ever-innovative house of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Elegantly showcasing the marque’s renowned artisanal craftsmanship, its hand-guilloché dial is the perfect counterpoint to its fascia-featured perpetual complication and moon phase movements. Polished and poised, this ultra-slim limited-edition model is an apt homage to beautiful yet intricate watchmaking at its very finest.
Acknowledging the current ascendancy of the super-slim look, Vacheron Constantin’s new Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar, meanwhile, weighs in with a positively waif-like depth of 5.7mm, a feat made more miraculous still by the fact its sensationally-slender width houses a perpetual calendar, a moon phase and a minute repeater. Powering all this is the remarkable manual-winding Calibre 1731 movement, a feat of precision engineering comprising 438 individual wafer-thin components. One of the true hero pieces in the watchmaker’s widely-admired Les Cabinotiers range, only two one-off versions – one in white gold and one in pink gold – are ever destined to see the light of day.
With its eye firmly on the Asian market, for its part, Blancpain has opted to release an exclusive boutique version of its rightly-lauded Villeret Quantième Perpétuel. Available in a limited edition of just 88, the white gold case of the original has been upgraded to platinum, while its redesigned dial rejoices in an all-new sunray-brushed deep blue hue. In a particularly deft move, Blancpain has also damage-proofed the perpetual calendar via an integral security system within the self-winding Calibre 5954 movement.
The title of Perpetual Calendar King – were it on offer – though, would surely go to Patek Philippe, long considered among the most masterful of marques when it comes to grand complications. As proof incontestable, the latest iteration of its Grandmaster Chime Ref.6300G-010 is undoubtedly its most complex to date, a title attested to by its incorporation of 20 individual complications.
With a touch of the avant-garde, its entire case can be rotated around its lug connection points, with both fascia deployed to display its intricate inner workings – which, in addition to the perpetual complication, include five different chiming modes, a second time zone display with day / night indicator and a moon phase. In a knowing nod to the kind of wealthy, debonair gentlemen likely to sport such a horological high-water mark, each watch comes boxed with complimentary complementing cufflinks boasting the same blue opaline-on-white gold motif as this truly timeless timepiece.
Text: Tenzing Thondup
Cannes Film Festival: Our favourite looks from Cannes Red Carpet 2019
Cannes International Film Festival kicked off its 72nd year with plenty of elegant and extravagant looks. Here are our favourites from Cannes red carpet 2019.
Chloë Sevigny
American-actress Chloë Sevigny channelled classic Hollywood with this black silk Mugler gown at the premiere of “The Dead Don’tDie“, meanwhile, it was impossible to miss the dazzling cuff bracelet on her left wrist, which is set in 18ct white gold set with diamonds, courtesy of Chopard.
Gong Li
Keeping with the trend of capes at this year’s festival, Chinese-actress Gong Li made her 18th appearance on Cannes Red Carpet for the premiere of “The Dead Don’tDie” in a classic gown from Ralph & Russo.
Elle Fanning
Elle Fanning looked like a dream at the premiere of “Les Miserables“, wearing a deep-plunge Valentino botanical gown, complimented by jewels from Chopard. Even the young actresses’ hair was decorated with an array of flowers in a wraparound milkmaid braid.
Liu Tao
Chinese-actress Liu Tao stunned the red carpet with an exquisite ivory gown, showing off a deep v-neck and thigh high slit. To compliment the gown’s detailed embroidery, the Cannes first-timer wore an extravagant necklace courtesy of Chopard featuring a huge pear-shaped sapphire, with matching earrings.
Nieves Álvarez
Truly earning her keep as the BVLGARI‘s Spanish brand ambassador, Nieves Álvarez dazzled onlookers with her pink gold and coral onyx inserts, paired beautifully with her Elie Saab Haute Couture dress.
Selena Gomez
Disney-star gone Hollywood leading-lady Selena Gomez opted for a two-piece Louis Vuitton dress and gorgeous diamond necklace from Bulgari at the premiere of “The Dead Don’tDie“, perhaps she’ll have a chance to wear it again at her wedding to Bill Murray?
Sweet Spot: Haute haute joaillerie accessories as dandy as candy…
Your cravings for sweets may be satisfied this season without the worry of making a trip to the dentist, as haute joaillerie accessories from luxury brands such as Cartier, Chopard and Piaget have all the latest offerings for those who believe that the sweeter things in life are meant to be worn, rather than eaten.
From Left: Extremely Piaget Collection necklace in 18K white gold with emerald-cut yellow diamond and pavé white diamonds by Piaget Volants Noirs et Blancs ring in white gold with diamonds, spinels and opals by Van Cleef & Arpels Sunny Side of Life cuff-watch in 18K white gold with diamonds and a lapis lazuli dial; Sunlight Journey earrings in 18K white gold with oval-cut opals, sapphire beads and diamonds, both by Piaget
High Jewellery Collection cuff in 18K yellow gold set with yellow and white diamonds; High Jewellery Collection white gold and aluminium necklace set with rubies, both by Chopard
From left: Les Galaxies de Cartier ring and necklace in 18K yellow gold with diamonds, yellow and blue sapphires, and fire opals; Les Galaxies de Cartier bracelet in 18K white gold with black Tahitian pearls, all by Cartier
From left: Mille Miglia Racing Colours stainless steel watch by Chopard Cartier Santos Dumont watch in 18K gold with steel case by Cartier
From left: Attrape Moi ring in 18K white and pink gold with diamonds, sapphires, Mandarin garnets and aquamarines by Chaumet Carré de Sator necklace in white gold set with diamonds, pink and blue sapphires, chrysoprase and turquoise; Apollon Butterfly clip in white, pink and yellow gold set with pink sapphires, diamonds and mauve; Gâteau d’Amour ring in white gold set with diamonds, spinels and coral; Two ButterflyBetween the Finger ring in yellow gold set with lapis lazuli and diamonds, all by Van Cleef & Arpels Piaget Polo 42mm stainless steel watch; Limelight Garden Party collection ring in 18K white gold set with oval-cut pink tourmalines, sapphires and diamonds, both by Piaget
From left: Josephine Aigrette Imperiale earrings and necklace in 18K white gold with pavé diamonds and pear-shaped pigeon blood rubies; Hortensia “Aube Rosée” secret watch in 18K pink gold with diamonds, opals, pink opals, pink tourmalines and pink sapphires, all by Chaumet Montblanc 1858 Geosphere watch in satin-finished bronze case by Montblanc (limited to 1858 pcs)
A Hint of Basel: Haute horological treasures from Baselworld 2019
The month of March is inevitably ring-fenced and red-circled on the wall-planners of watch lovers the world over. This, of course, is because within its 31-day span, some six of them are given over to Baselworld, the high point of the haute horology year and the expo par excellence for keen chronometer collectors.
This year, the event ran from 21 to 26 March, with the 520 brands on show attracting 81,200 attendees. While the available space does not stretch to showcasing all the debutante designs that merit a mention, the claim to greater attention of seven of them in particular just cannot be disputed.
Female watch fans were in for a particular treat with MB&F opting to unveil its first-ever ladies’ timepiece – the Legacy Machine FlyingT – at the event. With its accentuated crystal dome, dazzlingly diamond-studded bezel and fascia, and central flying tourbillon, this was one new arrival that was all but impossible to miss. Quirky yet undeniably chic, it’s a design that’s every bit as eye-catching as any of the marque’s more outré chap-friendly chronometers.
For those in search of something a tad subtler, Chanel’s limited-edition Boy∙friend Skeleton Black Edition is an ode to minimalism, with its rectangular black ceramic case – devoid of any embellishments – the perfect foil for its skeletonised dial. Here the proprietary manually-winding Calibre 3 movement is clearly visible, as are the overlapping hour-and-minute dial and small seconds subdial. It’s actually something of a shame that only 55 such watches are ever to see the light of day.
Gentlemen horological connoisseurs, meanwhile, were treated to a veritable smorgasbord of timepiece treasures, including Bulgari’s groundbreaking Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. Rightly securing the marque its fifth world record, this ultra-slim timepiece’s Calibre BVL 318 movement clocks in at just 3.3mm, with the watch’s overall thickness being merely 6.9mm. Fitted with a GMT function – allowing the watch to display two separate time zones – this would be a welcome addition to the armoury of any non-tardy traveller.
A more athletic approach was on offer from Rolex in the form of its all-new upsized 42mm Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42. From the off, its white gold bezel (complete with a striking matte black Cerachrom insert) and all-black dial make it a real attention-grabber. Underneath beats a Calibre 3235 movement, the most cutting-edge time-and-date generator this most eminent of watchmakers has ever produced. Sturdy yet sophisticated, this is truly a chronogram for the sophisticated seafarer.
Eschewing seaborne soirées for airborne adventure is Swiss watchmaker TAG Heuer with a new iteration of its long-loved Autavia – (aut)o and (avia)tion – collection. Dubbed the Autavia Isograph, its bi-directional 60-minute bezel, broad hands and oversized Arabic numeral hour markers are all in true cockpit character. For the curious, the Isograph nomenclature is a knowing nod to the unique carbon composite that resides within its Calibre 5 movement – a fittingly innovative touch for a watch that has already won fans the world over.
Renowned haute horology label Patek Philippe also revealed a new aviation-inspired design at the event – the Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520P. Its robust, four-crown, pilot-style platinum case stylishly houses the brand’s latest high-precision movement, a slim 6.6mm Calibre AL 30-660 S C FUS, while its all-black dial is home to a 24-hour alarm, a digital alarm display, a second time zone display and a day-night indicator. As intricate as it is innovative, this limited-edition creation is all but guaranteed to be a real collectors’ item.
A true statement timepiece, though, came courtesy of Chopard in the beguiling form of its L.U.C Flying T Twin. Set to astound in aesthetic terms alone, its painstakingly hand-guilloché dial is fetchingly patterned with the selfsame honeycomb motif that company founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard selected as the maison’s first logo, making this an apt showcase for the brand’s renowned artisanal handcraftsmanship.
Beyond its alluring looks, however, the virtuoso technical skills on show here also merit a special mention. From its ultra-sleek 3.3mm Calibre 96.24-L movement to its flying tourbillon – a first for Chopard – this is haute horology at the very highest end. If that weren’t enough, it is also crafted using only ethically-sourced Fairmined gold for its case, hands and hour markers. By fusing time-honoured techniques with contemporary flair, and mechanical know-how with visually stunning iconography, it stands as a resounding celebration for the watchmaking craft and more than justifies any Baselworld jolly in its own right.