Even though they seem the very epitome of contemporary design, skeletonised dials have been around for centuries. Indeed, they date back to the eighteenth century when André Charles Caron – clockmaker to King Louis XV of France – first eschewed all the window dressings of a timepiece to afford clear views of the intricate machinery beneath. Since then, the open-worked aesthetic has charmed haute horology enthusiasts the world over, be it to exemplify a minimalist theme or spotlight avant-garde stylings. Below, we highlight seven superlative new examples of this transparent motif.
Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise
First up is Cartier’s 100-piece Privé Tank Chinoise, the latest avatar of the iconic design first launched exactly a century ago in 1922. As its name suggests, it embodies a distinct Oriental allure. Ringed by a diamond-studded bezel and housed in a platinum case, its fascia is dominated by vertical and horizontal bars inspired by the traditional architecture of ancient Chinese temples. Peeking out beneath these stripes are the inner workings of the brand’s new 9627 MC manual-winding movement, the elaborate stylings of which can be better viewed through its transparent caseback.
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
Next to the table is the ultra sleek Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton from Swiss manufacture H. Moser & Cie. Blending minimalism and extravagance in equal measure, graceful anthracite PVD-finished bridges hold the hour-and-minute Funky Blue fumé domed subdial at 12 o’clock, contrasted beautifully with the timepiece’s pièce de résistance – a one-minute flying tourbillon – on the bottom half of its fascia. Visible underneath is the automatic calibre HMC 811 movement, which churns out a generous 72-hour power reserve.
Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE58
From Hamburg-headquartered Montblanc comes the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE58. Available in a limited release of 58 pieces, this blue-on-steel creation pays tribute to the maison’s historic Minerva manufacture – a famed watchmaking facility known for its specialisation in precision-engineered chronographs and folded into the brand in 2006 – by ‘unveiling’ one of its handmade movements beneath its open-worked dial, in this instance, the MB 16.29 calibre. The traditional transparent caseback, meanwhile, has been replaced with a beautiful engraved relief of the aforementioned Villeret factory.
Piaget Polo Skeleton
For a more slimmed down finish, though, look no further than Piaget’s latest Polo Skeleton. Unsurprisingly for a label that holds several records in crafting hyper-thin designs, its latest offering boasts one of the world’s thinnest mechanical movements: the skeletonised 1200S1, which measures a scant 2.4mm. Injecting an element of sparkle to proceedings, its 42mm white gold case is graced with a staggering 1747 brilliant-cut diamonds across its dial, bezel, case and bracelet. Deftly fusing high-end watchmaking with haute joaillerie know-how in one attractive package, this is a timepiece that will surely ensnare any passing gaze.
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire
Opting for a wholly transparent aesthetic, meanwhile, is Chopard’s new LUC Full Strike Sapphire. To fully enhance the chiming function of this minute repeater watch, its entire case has been fashioned from a translucent sapphire case, with its crystal gongs similarly crafted from that same material. At the heart of its skeletonised fascia beats the 533-part calibre LUC 08.01-L movement that boasts five new patents to achieve the clarity of its sounding of the hours, quarters and minutes.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier EX0953
A more outré example of the open-worked motif comes courtesy of Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Monobalancier EX0953, whose sharp geometric lines and sand-blasted finishing gives it an almost industrial appeal. Housed in a 42mm Eon gold case ringed with 60 round-cut diamonds, it affords direct views of the RD 720SQ calibre movement underneath. The ruby accents of the mechanism, meanwhile, are perfectly accentuated with purple calf-leather straps.
Rebellion T-500 Titanium
The final entrant on our list is none other than the T-500 Titanium by Swiss watchmaker Rebellion. Exuding an undeniable avant-garde aura, this rectangular timepiece’s see-through dial perfectly displays its unusual timekeeping mechanism. Under the curved sapphire dome, the 380-part manual winding vertical movement and six barrels that charge its jaw-dropping 420-hour energy reserve is on full display. Further underscoring its race car-esque appeal, the traditional hour-and-minute indicators have been eschewed in favour of two parallel rollers at the centre of its fascia. Available in the buyer’s choice of blue, red, orange, green or black, it’s the perfect choice for watch enthusiasts enamoured with a bit of experimental horology.
(Text: Tenzing Thondup)