Tag: Restaurant

Art or Food? Akrame (Wan Chai)

In the third of our stories on date night in Wan Chai (see our last one here), we head to Akrame. Opened in November 2013 to great acclaim, this minimalistic spot on Star Street is the place to take your date on an exquisite gastronomic adventure.

Within one year of opening, Akrame garnered a Michelin Star securing its place in the city’s culinary hall of fame. “We have maintained this star since,” says Business and Operations Director Vivien Leung. She believes the reason for their continued acclaim is the “one of a kind” dining experience. “[It] can be compared to high couture fashion,” she says. “…avant garde and forward thinking.”

Four months ago, Akrame (pronounced Ah-khramm) unveiled its new design presenting contemporary artworks by artists Yaz (French-Algerian) and Ogut (Java) in partnership with ARTYZE Gallery. Since then, the restaurant has been holding ‘Art x Gastronomy’ events every month, with a private art preview from 6-8:30pm and a special tasting menu from 8:30pm onwards. You can follow their Facebook updates to find out when the next one is.

Best for anniversary dates: Akrame

Stagecraft is part of the show here, as your server – with his booming French accent and emphatic gestures – presents each dish with much ado. We went for the blind tasting lunch, leaving our destiny in the chef’s hands. They will adjust to any dietary restriction or allergy before coming up with the day’s concoctions.

We began with bread topped with melted cheese and a delicate amuse-bouche. The latter appeared like a sliver of fish suspended on a black leaf, set on cling wrap over a small ceramic bowl as if it were levitating on air. We could already tell we were in for an artistic ride of a meal.

At this point we were already having difficulty making sense of the heavily-accented descriptions of our server, as we tried to connect what he was saying with what we were seeing and tasting. A lobster appetizer with fruit-cream froth and what looked like a seaweed wafer perched on top was next. Regardless of what it really was, it was exquisite and delicious. It also looked like a piece of abstract art.

The other appetizer of charcoaled egg with cauliflower foam was our first sampling of two-Michelin-star chef Akrame Benallal’s signature method. The Parisian-Algerian food artist is best known for his use of activated charcoal in his creations. The ingredient is utilised to add texture, with a grainy-powdery mouth-feel also gaining popularity as a health supplement. Apparently, it’s a strong detoxifier able to cleanse the body of impurities with moderate consumption.

We had duck for our main, paired with carrot and exotic fig. It was cooked to perfection, the meatjuicy and tender, disappearing in a matter of seconds. You may not leave with the fullest of stomachs, but your eyes will be sure to have feasted in equal amounts on the exquisite plating, done justice by the sublime flavours.

Finally, dessert arrived. Akrame’s all-time best is the dark ensemble of charcoal pineapple, sea salt cookies and ice cream. Try not to smile at your partner immediately after eating. If you want to avoid that Halloween look, you can request for the new Fragrance Blanc de Blanc: a fruity and refreshing alternative featuring citrus, orange blossom, and cherry.

Hong Kong’s dining scene has been graced by the presence Akrame for four years now, which has never lost its gastronomic position that sets it apart from its neighbours on the busy restaurant-lined Ship Street. We discovered just what was so special about this concept, founded by the world’s youngest Michelin-star chef. Get ready to embark on a journey of food and art to delight your tastebuds as you toast to your red-letter day.

For a fine dining experience complete with dégustation menus, Akrame keeps its prices reasonable starting at 3 course lunches from HK$280, a Sunday brunch at HK$580, and a 6 to 8 course dinner at HK$888/$1,888 respectively. It’s definitely not your everyday spread, but a once-in-a-blue-moon celebration for special occasions.

Shop B, G/F, No 9 Ship Street Wanchai, Hong Kong. Tue-Sunday 12-3pm, 6-11pm. +852 2528 5068. www.akrame.com.hk

Text: Julienne C. Raboca

Spanish September: Special Tasting and Tapas Menus at Rustico this month

Iberian country-style restaurant Rustico is refining its touch this September with special menus from guest chef Jaume Puigdengolas. The Barcelonian is best known for his leadership at award-winning Restaurante Skina, frontrunner of Marbella’s gastronomic landscape.

The two menus presented this month will be the Executive Tasting Menu (September 4-7, 2017) and the Special Tapas Menu (September 1-3 and 8-24, 2017). The latter was crafted in collaboration with Rustico’s very own Executive Chef Carlos Salvador.

What can you expect from the limited edition dishes? Traditional Spanish cuisine with an innovative twist – the formula to Skina’s success. The Executive Tasting Menu includes two savory aperitifs and two starters followed by a delectable Roasted Mullet and Saffron “Suquet”.

 

Diners can then choose between two meat dishes; Gafencu highly recommends the Duck Rillette with Vegetables. The alternative would be the Cannelloni of Roast Veal with Light Béchamel, Cream Cheese and truffle. After the rich feast, seal the deal with the expertly textured Chocolate Rock for dessert. Set aside HK$880 per person for this degustation.

If you want a more casual taste of Puigdengolas’ touch, go for the à la carte seasonal tapas menu instead. Our top picks were the Spicy Mussel Croquette stuffed in Shell (HK$118), the vegetarian Zucchini Flower with Zucchini Pesto (HK$128) and the Fresh Squid with Burnt Leeks and ROMESCO Sauce (HK$118).

Located in the up-and-coming district of Lai Chi Kok, Rustico will continue to offer its much-loved, traditional Spanish fare and cocktails alongside the set and tapas menus. The well-loved tapas and wine bar is known for serving traditional Catalan favourites with a modern twist.

Rustico. G01, G/F, D2 Place1, 9 Cheung Yee Street, Lai Chi Kok, Hong Kong (D2 Exit from Lai Chi Kok MTR). Open daily 12:00nn-10:30pm. +852 2743 4511. www.rustico.com.hk 

Text: Julienne Raboca

The Hong Kong Old Restaurant – it’s not old and it serves Shanghai cuisine

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Despite its name, the Hong Kong Old Restaurant is not actually that old. The name is also erroneous in another detail – it’s actually Shanghainese. Founded in 1993, it is unpretentious and unassuming. Last year, its Hong Kong branch moved from North Point to the newly built Nan Fung Tower on Connaught Road. It opened there with minimal fuss and even less promotion. Today, unless you’re actually looking for it, there’s little to guide you to its basement location. Inside, the décor is very basic but, for those in search of reasonably priced Shanghainese cuisine, it is well worth a visit. Reassuringly, the apt regional dialect is heard in conversation among patrons and between the workman-like service staff. While the Hong Kong Old Restaurant might not win style points, it is certainly authentic. As is customary with this cuisine, we start with some appetite-whetting cold dishes. The Diced Chicken in Piquant Sauce ($108) delivers a surprising kick, complete with strong Mala chilli flavours and what appears to be a turmeric base. It wasn’t so much hot as tingly on the tongue, with its moist cubes of chicken and peanuts proving simply delicious.

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The Honey Ham Wrapped in Steamed Bread with Crispy Beancurd Sheet ($92 for two) came separate, with the steamed buns in a basket and the ham and bean curd on a separate plate. While it’s meant to be DIY, when asked the server expertly divided the ingredients into little sandwiches right in front of us. Overall, the Shanghainese cured ham is mellower than the Yunnan ham often used in cooking. The ham slices in the buns were also quite thick so, if too salty, they would certainly be overwhelming. Instead, they’re sweet, savoury, crunchy and spongy – a snack that truly boasts multiple textures and flavour profiles. As it’s hairy crab season – and it’s generally accepted that the best pickings always come after the Mid-Autumn Festival – we tried the Hairy Crab Xiao Long Bao ($120 for four) and the Hairy Crab in Tofu ($388). The steamed classic Shanghainese dumplings came with plenty of soup, while the crab roe might have been slightly over-steamed. Rather than oozing and unctuous, it was a little caked, although the crab’s delicate flavour was nicely infused into the soup. If the dumplings had been taken out a little earlier, it might have been more intense.

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The tofu with crab roe and meat proved an even better showcase for the seasonal crustacean. This simple combination of velvety fresh tofu coated with an almost creamy crab sauce, though, was truly heavenly. Hands down, the best dish, though, was the Fried Shredded Eel ($148). Many Shanghainese diners stir-fry in a considerable portion of bean sprouts and cut down on the eel. Here, though, we had the choice of just having the eel straight up and they do serve up a generous plate of plump, meaty strands – not dried or shrivelled from too much freezer time. The Shanghainese preference for heavy tastes can sometimes see dishes drowned in cooking wine, vinegar or sugar. Not the Hong Kong Old Restaurant. Rather than drenched in a soy braise, the thick threads of eel could be clearly tasted, complete with just enough caramelisation to elevate its sumptuousness. As a result, we were sorely tempted to soak up every drop of sauce with steamed rice. For dessert, we opted for more delicate flavours in the classic Little Dumplings in Soup with Sweet Wine Sauce ($42). The bowl of soothing liquid nourishes with the flavours of osmanthus and sticky rice wine, as well as some tiny, chewy rice cakes. It’s an elegant end to a Shanghai feast, one delivered with true class and little fanfare. If you need style, go elsewhere. If you’re content with substance and sumptuous food, try the Hong Kong Old Restaurant.

Hong Kong Branch
Basement, Nan Fung Tower
88 Connaught Road Central, Hong Kong
Tel: (852) 2508 1081
Kowloon Branch
1/F, Prat Mansions
26 Prat Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Tel: (852) 2722 1812