Bleu De France: Belon shifts the epicentre of Hong Kong’s French food a little closer to the 10th arrondissement

There are grand French fine dining rooms, and then there is Belon. The path it has travelled has taken many detours. When the restaurant opened, its goal was to be a French bistro, not a Michelin starred establishment, however, it quickly developed a following.

Cut to 2020, Chef de Cuisine Jacob Zuidervliet and the rest of the gastronomic geniuses behind Belon’s highly praised reputation extended the rustic luxe interior design, the ingredient provenance, and the preparation-focused dishes that have graced the pages of many publications and social media to a dining destination accessed via Elgin Street in SoHo.

Given the hip neighbourhood locale, Belon still exudes a surprisingly exuberating fine-dining aesthetic with plaster artwork revealing a history of the fleur-de-lis motif. At the same time, it pegs itself as a homey, unhurried restaurant with an easygoing vibe – courtesy of the ’90s and early noughties hip-hop music in the background – that hides the greater ambitions of the chefs.

“I like to think that we are introducing guests to something they would expect in the grand restaurants of France, both in terms of culinary execution and service in our intimate SoHo dining room,” says Chef Jacob, “We are focused on building a restaurant experience where there is no sleight of hand or showmanship; it is about providing solid, friendly service and food that is prepared with excellence and presented in a way that is sincere to its origin.”

*Dungeness Crab with White Asparagus and Caviar*

With month-on-month menu updates, the cascading a la carte supports this endless dedication, smoothly flowing from apéro or predinner, to a tasting menu and latenight drinks while featuring distinctive and modern French staples.

The team stretches the limits of a tiny kitchen, working the wood-fired oven over time. Precision is the driving force to their efficiency and everything must be timed so that the heat levels can quickly adjust.

A case in point is Cervelas en Brioche, smooth pork sausage cooked inside brioche dough, the chef’s personal favourite from his vast list of creations. The commitment to quality, though, starts long before anything is fired up. “It is a deceptively simple dish when it is served, but the amount of time, practice and technique that goes into preparing it is staggering. It is an excellent representation of our style of food, simple-looking but complex in flavour and technique.”

Though French, Belon brings inventive Asian touches to a playful menu. On our visit, we begin with the unabashedly French starters of Smoked Saba (mackerel) with Shishito Pepper and Yellow Courgette; Dungeness Crab with White Asparagus and Caviar; and Canadian Spot Prawn with Ravioli and Champagne Sauce.

A medley of mains comes right after: the bistro inspired Kinmedai with Cassoulet and Lardo di Colonnata; Hokkaido Scallop with Morel Farci and Sauce Hollandaise; and Quercy Lamb Saddle with Walnut and Swiss Chard.

These are the temptations that will make first-timers and regulars return for more. However, the true highlights of Belon’s taste test come in the form of Whole Roasted Chicken with Petits Pois à la Française; and Miyazaki Wagyu Striploin with Pomme Aumônière and Sauce Barigoule.

*Miyazaki Wagyu Striploin with Pomme Aumônière and Sauce Barigoule*

We close with an assortment of decadent desserts such as Gâteau Basque with Sherry and Foie Gras; Rhum Baba with Mango; Honey and Passion Fruit Millefeuille; and Black Truffle Gâteau Marjolaine. A portfolio of wines and other tipples complete the culinary escapade.

A faultless dinner recommendation, Belon is infused with a deep indigo hue and understated floral arrangements, while hints of underwater geometries of fish scales, coral and sponges recall found pieces from an abandoned shipwreck that serve as inspiration for its name and the dishes. More than good food and beyond a gateway to French cuisine, this restaurant proves that it is possible to give the level of attention palates deserve.

Belon, 1/F, 1-5 Elgin Street, SoHo, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2152 2872

Text: Joseff Musa Photos: Belon Video: Jack Fontanilla

Thai & Mighty: Nuanced Niras presents powerful and exquisite fine dining from Asia’s number-one chef

You might not find the go-to Pad Thai on the menu at Niras, but you will be rewarded with the finest seafood, meat and seasonal vegetables enlivened by Thai herbs, spices, paste and sauces. This is inventive modern Thai gastronomy. and while the ingredients are all locally sourced, the core essence comes from the heart of Thai cooking.

Niras is Thai for poetry that celebrates travel, adventure and romance; fittingly enough as this is the first time Thai culinary pioneer Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn and his team have left their native land. Chef Ton is the creative culinary mastermind behind Le Du and Nusara in Bangkok, which secured first and third spots respectively in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 rankings to reiterate his status as one of the most successful chefs in the region. After earning a degree in Economics and working in the banking industry for a short period of time, Chef Ton swapped his corporate suit and tie for his chef apron and uniform. And the rest, as they say, is history.

Now, by bringing his renowned modern and inventive cooking to Hong Kong, he aims to redefine Thai cuisine from fiery street food to refined, powerful and layered expressions of beloved flavours.

“While I must admit that Hong Kong has one of the best culinary offerings amongst the top cities in the world, it is missing a Thai fine-dining element,” says Chef Ton. “I want to fill that gap because I believe what we do here at Niras is a good introduction to what Thai food in an upscaled style is all about.”

Green and glass are the key interior statements of a chic yet relaxed restaurant where white tablecloths are eschewed in favour of sleek marble and granite tables. Witty framed artworks, created in collaboration with an artist from northern Thailand, also balance the refinement of Chef Ton’s culinary delights – one depicts a drunken Mickey Mouse in the shape of the Michelin mascot; another is a figure inspired by The Simpsons, Baht Sin Son.

A large oval bar is the focal point upon entering Niras. Given that Chef Ton is also a certified sommelier, wine pairings and beverages play a significant role in the dining experience. Whenever he is in town, the acclaimed chef is also the face of his own restaurant – often spotted serving food and talking to guests.

The tasting menu is a plated set of four or six courses. At one moment, you are being served River Prawn with Rice and Tom Yum and Duck with Potato in Massaman Curry, and the next, a fresh, palate-cleansing presentation of Beetroot Sorbet with Tiger Prawn alongside different types of seaweed.

Subtle and sophisticated, the tastes of each individual ingredient in every dish stand out in their own right rather than becoming one overpowering flavour. Case in point, the two follow-ups of Grouper with Thai Kale in Choo Chee Curry and Oyster with Pork Blood and Northern Spice.

The Hong Kong parade of Le Du’s iconic signature dishes is rounded off by Beef with Fennel and Holy Basil and Crab with Mushroom and Homemade Sriracha. The tasting menu, which casts Thai cuisine in an exquisite new light, changes regularly to reflect the local availability of seasonal ingredients. As if there are not enough reinventions, the divine Niras version of the all-time favourite Thai dessert Mango Sticky Rice appears as a final flourish – the perfect ending to the modern and polished Thai gastronomic experience.

Niras is the spot for locals who want their Thai flavour fix in a ritzy setting. Drawing in an eclectic crowd of creatives, foodies and wine connoisseurs as well as more casual diners, since opening in June, it has become the place to be for inspirational and social exchanges over bold, aromatic dishes and refreshing lime-infused gin and tonics. Chef Ton’s vision for Niras is full of character, from the food he serves to the art on his walls.

Niras, Shop 704, 7/F, K11 MUSEA Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. Tel: +852 3905 3022.

Photos: Niras Video: Jack Fontanilla

Tapas Territory: The Spanish mains shine at Bayfare Social, where dining is a lively moving feast

Spanish food is a vibrant testament to the country’s diverse heritage. Hong Kongers just can’t seem to get enough of this spirited cuisine, as countless new concepts have come to join the fray, injecting the landscape with a fresh, youthful spirit. At Bayfare Social, the tapas-inspired neighbourhood bar-cum gastro market that is a part of Rosewood’s throng of restaurants, it is easy to overeat. Trays of flavourful and colourful dishes are continually carried about by servers. It has the same impact and effect as sushi served on a conveyor belt, mobile churrasco and dim-sum carts. Ensconced in tall chairs at the gleaming marble dining counters, you will continue to gather morsels and much more to munch on.

As far as culinary traditions go, Spain has plenty to offer. Known for being outgoing and sociable by nature, Spaniards have a deep affinity for centring joyous occasions around a table full of food. Many would agree that a celebratory feast is an integral part of Mediterranean culture. Safe to say, there are no restrictions here, besides perhaps your budget.

Yet, even with that particular concern, Head Chef Jor ge Ver a Gutiérrez’s offerings are as authentic as they can get without spending above one’s allotted budget. He says: “We assure our customers that the high quality of Spanish food we serve is value for money. People can really take a breather here, relax and enjoy the Spanish vibe.”

Gutiérrez has developed a dining experience unlike any other in his lively restaurant – as much about the food as it is an immersion into the simple, thoughtful, self-effacing temperament of his homeland. In their efforts to build a food commune in a bustling city location, let alone in a hotel adjacent to a shopping mall, Gutierrez and his team just happened to have also created the finest place to eat Spanish food.

This vibrant enclave is emphasised by the use of dangling ferns and wild leaves on the ceiling and the strategic placement of separate open preparation counters dedicated to wines, mains and other gastronomic offerings. It also plays with balance, from the traditional brown clay pot displays and the Machuca tiles to the edgy geometric accents and the quirky yet nostalgic menu.

In true Spanish dining style, the elaborate spread is sure to enliven every celebration. There is charcuterie, tapas and a variety of paella. Everything is as splashy as the restaurant itself and hits a level 10 on the flavour scale. The new brunch menu, for example, begins with a refreshing and decadent seafood platter with jet-fresh Boston lobster, oysters and tiger prawns. The juicy Hokkaido shellfish in Scallop Tiradito – a Peruvian-inspired preparation – are enhanced by Spanish-style escabeche dressing and avocado.

Even the lighter options make a bold impact. Starters are followed by traditional tapas of Ibérico Ham Croquetas with aioli, Padrón Peppers sprinkled with sea salt, and Chorizo a la Sidra, a classic appetiser of chorizo braised in cider.

Following this eminently intriguing preamble are the hearty mains. Cochinillo Asado, the chef’s famous crispy-skinned roasted Spanish suckling pig with fried potatoes and homemade pork sauce, is smartly paired with a pan of Seafood Paella laden with clams, prawns, squid and aioli.

The best finale to this exceptional weekend spread is an indulgent dessert, courtesy of the traditional Spanish treat of Churros dipped in chocolate or tart of the day.

In Spain, gathering with friends and family to share food is a way of life that keeps people connected and is regarded as beneficial to mental health. Without fail, at the core of each gathering is a delicious spread, a tradition that Bayfare Social is committed to upholding. It not only delivers an authentic Spanish dining experience to Hong Kong but also surprises and delights with innovative twists and a huge helping of national pride.

BAYFARE SOCIAL 5/F, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Rosewood – Hong Kong, +852 3981 8732

Photos: Bayfare Social

Video: Jack Fontanilla

Amor Agora – Delivering an authentic dining experience to Hong Kong

Incorporating elements that feel like both a hymn to the past and of striking contemporary relevance, Chef Antonio Oviedo serves up a truly fabulous fusion of Spanish tasting menus. Very much to his credit, he ably combines prime Spanish seasonal ingredients with a range of innovative cooking techniques, all superbly served within the refined rustic-luxe space that comprises Agora, his Central-set bijou bistro.

As soon as you cross its threshold, the restaurant’s modern Mediterranean vibe is all but unmissable. Its ambience is further enhanced by its choice of beige velvet-covered chairs and padded walls, all of which finely complement its existing granite columns. Beyond that, the eatery’s minimalistic 24-seater space includes a private dining room that seats up to 10 guests, as well as two individual tables. Contemporary dashes of colour, meanwhile, come courtesy of the warm pin lights while a sea of red-marbled table tops soften the space, artfully counterpointing the brick accent walls and exposed ceiling.

Very much dominating the central space, however, is a communal table that runs the length of the entrance hall, providing just about the perfect harbour for those on a casual date night or looking to wash down their solo dinner with a glass of booze from their more than 20 Spanish appellations and over 90 Spanish labels. The venue’s long counter piece, however, serves as the main interior statement, with its shiny red lacquered front and marble countertop, to which Chef Antonio does all his impressive displays of peerless culinary expertise.

Explaining the thinking behind the look and feel of his establishment, the chef says: “My goal has always been to express my Spanish heritage by both showcasing our much-loved cuisine and creating a restaurant where the ambience is redolent of my country’s unique cultural heritage.”

In line with his avowed mission, he devised a tasting menu which, while largely authentically Spanish, is also bold enough to allow for a number of interesting digressions. Overall, he offers two seasonal chef’s degustation menus – the Menú Ágora and the Menú Gran Ágora.

As a titillating opener, the Verdial extra virgin olive oil, cultivated from firm and plump Gordal olives, immediately evokes one of the classic tapas bars of Madrid. This imaginative selection of appetisers is then completed by an ample serving of Choricero dried chili pepper – a dehydrated, non-spicy variety of Spanish red pepper and a classic seasoning of Basque cuisine – and Gamoneu, a fatty, lightly smoked Spanish cheese made from a combination of goat, cow and sheep’s milk.

Following this eminently intriguing preamble, is a recent addition to the menu – Vainas, a warming and savoury green bean soup with a touch of olive oil. This is ably followed by Rubia Gallega Tartare – the meat of a highly prized cattle breed, which is distinguished by its beautiful yet subtle marbling and its traditionally spicy, slightly briny flavour. Beautifully served with cured mujol roe, green peas purée, crispy wheat tart and tomato bread topped with Iberico ham, this proves a true treat. As does the Setas, a delightfully earthy bouquet of assorted wild mushrooms – all embellished with migas, chorizo and mushroom espuma.

Mar y Muntanya features Mediterranean Sea cucumber with teardrop peas, black pudding and a stew of pork, beef stomach and chickpeas. Accompanying this is Soccarat, a dish that forefronts the toasty, crispy and umami-rich bottom part of the paella alongside fresh carabinero and carabinero aioli. Another recent addition is the Lubina, Atlantic Sea bass served with ajada spiced mashed potato and goose barnacles. More of a confirmed favourite meanwhile, is the Venado Venison, served with potato chips, quince, glazed chestnut, sweet potato purée and venison bone jus.It’s best to end the whole dining experience with Flor de Azahar, a delightful dessert made with orange blossom, almond and saffron.It wraps the whole experience with a perfect confectionary ending. And just like the fine dining scene of Spain, Chef Antonio hopes Agora becomes one of those places that’s been around and stays around forever. “It has such a duality between palatability and beauty,” he says.

Agora, G/F, D Hall, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong, +852 3568 6834

(Text: Joseff Musa Photos: Agora)

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