It isn’t difficult to find Vietnamese food in Hong Kong, something Chef Que Vinh Dang is abundantly aware of. In his opinion, however, it is nearly impossible to find a Vietnamese establishment that hasn’t reduced its menu down to the two most iconic dishes of Pho and Banh Mi. Indeed, Que been something of an establishment in his own right in New York and Hong Kong, with over two decades of the restaurant industry under his belt. After a near three-year hiatus from the kitchen, he’s back with a contemporary Vietnamese concept – Nhậu.
Admittedly, we took a wrong turn down Hollywood Road before ending up at his near-hidden eatery that is just a stone’s throw away from Man Mo Temple. Nhậu is certainly a hidden gem upon first glance. From the off, the ambiance is relaxed but still maintains a certain elegance. The walls display homey Vietnamese dǒulìs while the bamboo styled chairs pay tribute to the French colonial era of the nation’s past. Indeed, Chef Que is committed to delivering a relaxed space with top-notch food without all the gimmicks that seem part and parcel of modern day dining.
Eager to delve into his contemporary interpretations of classic Vietnamese favourites, we began with the Banh Mi Rice Tacos. The iconic sandwich bread has been swapped out for three soft rice “tortillas”, and the healthy portion of Impossible meat and home-made pickles proved to be delicious.
In the interest of healthy eating, up next was the vegetarian version of the Roasted Cauliflower with Caramelised Pork Koh Quet. Instead of the usual pork version, the kitchen prepared an Impossible Foods (plant-based substitutes for meat or dairy products) version that saw to it that we learned to love our veggies.
Finally ready to embrace our inner carnivore, next to be rolled out was the Bo La Lot Tartare with Crispy Beef Tendon. Unlike its classic interpretation, the betel leaves are mixed with Australian wagyu beef and a dash of curry mayo. The creative touch of this dish allows the crispy beef tendon crackers to be used to scoop up the delicious mixture.
The fourth plate to arrive was to be our favourite of the bunch – the Hamachi Bowl – Rice Noodle Salad, 40n Fish Sauce & Crispy Turmeric Batter. The hamachi was luscious and buttery in texture, and paired wonderfully with the pickled cucumbers and noodles. Of everything served, this was by far the hardest to share as it required serious self-restraint to resist gobbling up the entire bowl.
Just when we thought our feast was over, a generously-sized bowl of Pandan Ice-cream with Sticky Honeycomb Cake and Puffed Rice arrived. The pandan proved to be a sweet affair, especially with the touch of crunchy honeycomb.
In all, Nhậu is home to a unique and delicious array of Vietnamese sharing plates, and a true treat for those who expect only the best from Chef Que. There is nothing but sincerity in his voice as he tells us, “I’ve done a lot of growing over my career, this restaurant is really me coming full circle.”
Text: Bailey Atkinson
Nhậu, 12 Circular Pathway, Central
+852 3612 4568, info@nhau.hk
