When it was invented in the twilight years of the 18th century, the tourbillon was lauded as a revolutionary piece of horological engineering. Created to turn the escapement and balance wheel continuously within a rotating cage, it negated the effects of gravity on the commonly worn pocket watches of the era and thus ensured the heightened precision of the timepiece.
Today, with wristwatches now dominant, tourbillons are no longer critical to maintaining timekeeping precision. Yet, they continue to grace high-end wrist adornments as a testament to a watchmaker’s skilled craftsmanship. Here, we highlight seven recent creations that have eye-catchingly incorporated this mechanical marvel.
1. Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus
First is Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus. A stunning ode to fine watchmaking, this statement timepiece features a staggering 16 complications, including calendar and astronomical indications as well as a minute repeater. The tourbillon proper takes pride of place at six o’clock on the front dial, while sidereal time is displayed at the back. The 47mm case is also etched with intertwining grapes and vines as a tribute to the Roman god of wine.
2.Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition
Another prime example of haute-horological skill comes courtesy of Girard-Perregaux’s La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition. Based on the prize-winning La Esmeralda pocket watch that debuted at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris, its blue enamel dial similarly features three dominant gold bridges, with the tourbillon positioned at the bottom. The equine inspiration of yesteryear has also been revived in this 18-piece limited edition, with two hand-engraved galloping horses straddling the dial. A further three horses punctuate the blue enamel caseback, which opens to reveal the GP09600-1506 self-winding movement underneath.
3.Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked
For a more streamlined – though no less mechanically impressive – design, look no further than Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked. Produced to mark the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, this 41mm stainless-steel timepiece is burnished with the brand’s first self-winding flying tourbillon open-worked movement – the Calibre 2972 – showed off to perfection by its skeletonised motif. Eschewing any unnecessary elements, it boasts an almost industrial appeal.
4.Bulgari Octa Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon
Similarly boasting an open-worked aesthetic – though with a sleek blue on platinum and white gold vibe – is Bulgari’s Octa Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon. Visible beneath its fascia is the hand-wound calibre BVL428 movement, replete with a tourbillon minute repeater whose chiming is the product of three hammers and gongs. In a smart move, the grille-like accents on its dial are designed to have as few obstructions as possible in order to allow clear passage of sound from within.
5. MB&F Legacy Machine Flying T Allegra
Bulgari also teamed up with renowned independent label MB&F to create the Legacy Machine Flying T Allegra. Blending high-end horology with haute joaillerie, this opulent design – available in white or red gold and limited to 20 pieces each – sees the eponymous flying tourbillon take centre stage beneath a distinctive domed dial. The pavéd diamond hour-and-minute subdial, meanwhile, is propped against it at a slant. Almost every visible inch of this bejewelled creation is carpeted with gemstones, as the likes of topaz, amethyst, tsavorite and tourmaline punctuate the plentiful diamonds.
6. Bovet Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two Reimagined DLC-SLN
Another exquisite limited-edition wrist implement is Fleurier-based Bovet’s Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two Reimagined DLC-SLN – the reimagining and the abbreviations involve a grade 5 titanium case coated in black Diamond Like Carbon. Its fascia features two subdials (a 10-day power reserve indicator on the left and another with a date aperture and model number on the right), while the tourbillon is visible at six o’clock. Just eight pieces each of six colourways – blue, salmon, turquoise, violet, green or yellow – will be made.
7. Roger Dubuis Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon
Rounding out our list of top tourbillon designs is Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon – a collaboration with French graffiti artist Gully. Here, his interpretation of the Excalibur Monotourbillon’s iconic star motif is evidenced by abstract angular accents, some in a riot of colourful accents. It’s a deft touch, as the multihued touches also spell out his name, with the ‘U’ neatly ringing the tourbillon in question. Adroitly fusing haute horologerie with street art, this outré timepiece playfully explores new bounds of watchmaking without ever once skimping on precision engineering.