Vintage wristwatches – timepieces typically made before the ’80s – are hugely prized and popular investment items for haute horology enthusiasts. Indeed, well-preserved older timepieces with strong provenances have yielded stunning auction results across the globe. A case in point is actor Paul Newman’s 1968 Rolex Daytona, which sold in 2017 for a staggering US$15.5 million. Due to their age, though, many of these collectibles show signs of wear and tear, ranging from scratched crystal to broken parts. But collectors should be aware of exactly how vintage watch repairs affect the overall timepiece if they want to maintain the integrity and value of their precious timepiece, as one wrong move could see their investment significantly devalue.
The value of original parts
Highly sought-after vintage timepieces were typically made for a particular purpose (or purposes) and often have a significant place in history. In an article posted by major international auction house Sotheby’s, watch collectors prize vintage watches because they represent monumental horological moments and are often part of major technological breakthroughs. Take, for example, the the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer, designed for the Everest expedition in 1953, the first watch to reach Mount Everest’s 8,848m summit. So, it makes sense why original parts, although flawed or damaged, can carry significant value for a vintage timepiece. For instance, signs of ageing like scratches can offer a unique story, and replacing those parts during vintage watch repairs would be akin to changing its history, and ultimately, its value.
The three most important parts to a vintage watch
First and foremost, if you aren’t sure whether replacing a broken part would benefit or devalue a vintage watch, don’t do it. Once it’s done, it can’t be undone, and there is no way to return its value. Here are other points to note when contemplating vintage watch repairs:
The crystals
When the crystal of a watch is severely cracked or damaged, repairing it is important. It is the first defense in protecting the most important parts of the watch – the dial, hands, and movement – from external substances that could cause irreparable damage to the movement, surely affecting the value of the watch.
Water-resistant gaskets
Similar to the crystal, gaskets are also an important part of the watch’s protective system. If a gasket is not restored or replaced, it will become damaged, brittle or flattened over time, creating a weak spot for the watch and potentially allowing dirt and other particles to enter and adversely affect its internal mechanisms.
Hands and dials
The dials and hands are always two factors of the watch that collectors look at when considering the value of a timepiece, particularly in the case of complex creations with multiple apertures. Replacing the dials and hands not only affects the aesthetics of the watch but also drastically brings down the value of it. The only exception to replacing the hands of a vintage timepiece, according to a watch specialist at Christie’s, is if the replacement part is age-appropriate, authentic and equally as rare as the watch itself. For example, a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6204 from 1954 with a mirror dial from the early ’60s would be more likely to retain its value. Alternatively, an experienced watchmaker may be able have an alternative solution to prevent further deterioration while keeping its original part, and therefore maintaining the integrity of the original model.
Finding an experienced watchmaker to service replacement part
Although it is recommended that vintage watch repairs should be handled by the original brand’s service centre, it isn’t a guarantee that they can even accept them. In some cases, parts that require repair are either rare or have ceased to be produced, thus hindering their ability to refurbish them. In these instances, you can still opt for an independent watchmaker, one specifically experienced in the precepts of proper watch restoration work. Here are a few recommendations:
DM2 Watch Service
Berne Horology
Classic Watch Repair
Feature image from Classic Watch Repair