The age of the woman is dawning. No longer tied to their hearths and homes, the fairer sex has ventured into the wider world – independent, educated and determined. Womankind has also shown herself to be an economic force to be reckoned with. Within the last decade, even the world of haute horology has seen a female shift, as ‘power ladies’ turn their attention to the traditionally male territory of high-end watch collecting.
This, in turn, has forced watchmakers to take stock of their products and rethink their approach to crafting watches for women. The result is a slew of women’s timepieces that balance beautiful looks with intricate mechanics. We’ve perused the latest offerings and picked seven outstanding models.
Among the more classical pieces to emerge is IWC’s Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36 Edition “150 years”. Launched as part of the high end watch brand’s 150th anniversary Jubilee celebrations, this model harks back to the classic ‘90s yellow gold Lady Da Vinci. Although its bezel is bedecked with over 200 white diamonds, the model retains an aura of understated elegance. There are two versions available; white gold and rose gold. Both are part of a limited 50-piece release.
Another vintage-style timepiece is Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato 34mm Royalty. In this instance, the Laureato collection’s signature octagonal bezel gets the diamond treatment – 56 diamonds to be precise. On the reverse side, the sapphire crystal caseback reveals a delicate quartz calibre GP013100-0004 movement. It’s a thoughtful touch – Girard-Perregaux was the first to miniaturise a quartz calibre enough to fit in a ladies watch back in 1975.
Meanwhile, Richard Mille’s Gem-Set Black Ceramic timepiece ambitiously melds diamonds and black ceramic, a first in the world of fine watchmaking. Black TPZ ceramic’s exceptional scratch resistance and hardness means embedding the diamonds into its surface is a complex and delicate affair. The effort definitely pays off. The black ceramic’s matte finish perfectly offsets the shining diamonds, heightening its overall effect.
Audemars Piguet has opted for a no-diamond policy with its Ladies’ Millenary Frosted Gold Opal Dial. Instead, this timepiece features a beautiful off-centre white opal dial and matching small seconds sub-dial. These only take up half the real estate of its 39.5mm oval face. The remaining surface space is open faced, showcasing the watch’s tailor-made calibre 5201 movement. A frosted pink gold bezel and Polish mesh bracelet finishes off what is one of our favourite watches for women in recent years.
Cartier’s Crash Radieuse also foregoes gemstones. Its curious wavy shape was introduced over 50 years ago, and remains a Cartier classic. The yellow gold bezel is lined with black gadroons, while distorted Roman numerals dot the dial. This 50-piece limited edition timepiece runs on an 8970 MC hand-wound movement created for Cartier by Jaeger LeCoultre.
Watches for women also stretch beyond flashy dress models. Tag Heuer’s new Formula 1 Lady introduces a sporty alternative. Boasting a quartz movement and tonneau shape similar to its male counterpart, it’s a great mix-and-match option for any occasion. All aspects of this design can be customised, including its dial, bezel, hands and flange. There are even switchable straps available in multiple colours.
Hublot’s Big Bang One Click Pink Sapphire 39mm is another sporty option found on the higher end of the market. Its no-nonsense HUB 1710 self-winding movement and large hour markers are dressed up with a diamond-studded bezel. The case’s eye-catching pink hue is achieved thanks to a delicate mixture of aluminium oxide and titanium oxide. A matching pink structured rubber strap completes its athletic look.
The indomitable rise of high-end female collectors has breathed new life into a previously stagnant segment of the haute horology world. It has driven watch manufacturers to question existing design practices. It’s pushed them to pursue avenues of mechanical craftsmanship previously reserved for men’s timepieces. Best of all, it has given us a continuous crop of beautiful yet complex watches for women to choose from.
Text: Tenzing Thondup