As long-frustrated would-be travelers finally get the green light to globetrot once again, there couldn’t be a more opportune moment to reassess that most trusty of travel companions – the world time watch. Doing pretty much exactly what it says on the tin, these precision-engineered wonders tell you the time anywhere in the world just by glancing at the appropriate time zone indicator.
Typically, this involves viewing the outer chapter ring, located just within the bezel displaying the names of one (or more) cities for each of the 24 reference time zones. There are seven current models that we commend as worthy of your particular attention…
First up is the Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557 (appropriately Hora Mundi is Latin for ‘World Time’). To be fair, this may be something of a controversial nomination, given that the watch is more truthfully a GMT model – one designed to display both local time and Greenwich Mean Time – rather than a true world timer. This quibble aside, the Ref. 5557 is a truly impressive wrist adornment.
Undoubtedly more of a true world time timepiece, however, is Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph. The very first Patek to feature a finely integrated calibre CH 28-520 HU movement, its fetchingly designed salmon dial comes ringed with the requisite 24 cities’ names, while the time zone chapter ring is usefully burnished in black and white, making distinguishing night and daytime refreshingly straightforward.
Putting a playful spin on traditional aesthetics, meanwhile, is Bovet’s Orbis Mundi, which was launched to celebrate the maison’s recent bicentennial. Boldly incorporating a new manually wound in-house calibre 15BM01HU movement, the world time mechanism resides on the 12 o’clock subdial, while a window on the lower half of the aventurine dial allows for a fascinating view of the inner workings of the escapement below.
Marking a similar milestone for a rival marque is the blue-on-white Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer GMT Steel from OMEGA. This 15th anniversary edition features a luminous blue dial with all the requisite 24-city and 24-hour discs boldly depicted. Featuring a date aperture at 6 o’clock, the main attraction here is the gorgeously hand-enameled sapphire crystal world map at its heart.
Another artwork-themed creation comes courtesy of a canny collaboration between independent watchmaker Svend Andersen and famed Singaporean vintage watch collector Benjamin Chee: the Celestial Voyager Sunset over Cappadocia. Burnished in a similar white-and-blue motif, the timepiece’s dial is dominated by the iconic hot air balloons and picturesque vistas synonymous with its eponymous Turkish locale, all brought to life through painstaking cloisonné enameling work.
Standing in stark visual contrast is the black-dominant Blast Moonstruck from Ulysse Nardin. In something of an ambitious move, this particular watch not only shows world time, but it can also indicate dual time, while also delivering a highly accurate recreation of the moon’s real-time waxing and waning, as well as its effect on the global tidescape.
All of these displays extend in continuous circles outward from the central, geocentric image of Earth as viewed from the North Pole. This complexity is elegantly packaged in a sleek combination of ceramic and blackened titanium.
Finally, we turn to the truly avant-garde in the notable form of the GMT Balancier Convexe, a recent release from the house of Gruebel Forsey. In an interesting counterpoint to our first candidate chronometer, this watch, too, is somewhat misnomered.
Rather than being a conventional GMT model, instead, it ambitiously incorporates a multitude of travel-related features, all separately arrayed across its distinctive dished fascia. Local time is indicated by two red arrow hands, while a second time zone sundial is propped on the left and a dominant 3D rotating globe ringed with the 24 time zones and cities is on the right, all of which are underscored by an inclined balance wheel at 6 o’clock.
(Text: Tenzing Thondup)